The best watches from BaselWorld Day 4: Breguet, Omega, and Glashütte Original
BREGUET: HOROLOGY AT ITS FINEST
Overall theme: Breguet decided to introduce a new piece to its Marine collection, which has not seen any big novelties in the past few years. The focus was on the history of navigation and the role AL Breguet's chronometers played in assisting seafarers, in particular, the fleets of the French Royal Navy. In other news, women watch lovers are in for a big treat this year, as Breguet releases a plethora of new Queen of Naples watches and a head-turning Tradition Dame. Finally, an impeccably dapper ultra-thin Classique with a Grand Feu white enamel dial brings the spotlight back to classical watchmaking.
Star watch: Marine Équation Marchante 5887
The X factor: This watch has a unique engraving on the dial depicting the waves of the ocean while its case back features an engraved portrait of the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy.
Achievement unlocked: This is one of the few watches on the market with an equation of time complication. It also has a triple calendar displaying date, day, and month. With a minimalist bridge, the tourbillon is particularly recognisable but what steals all the attention is the equation of time cam affixed to a sapphire crystal disc just above the tourbillon.
Did you know: The equation of time complication displays the differences between civil time and mean solar time, which is essentially the actual time as told by the Sun, relative to the Earth.
OMEGA: SPEED THRILLS
Overall theme: Celebrating 60 years of the Speedmaster, Omega pulls out a staggering collection of new models. Some are a throwback to the past and others represent the future for the line. Even women don't get left out, as Omega unveiled a stellar line of Speedmaster 38mms with interesting colourways. Not just the Speedmaster but also the Seamaster and the Railmaster got a remake, and eager buyers and collectors would be happy to know that Omega has prepared a trilogy watch set.
Star watch: Speedmaster The Trilogy
The X factor: Vintage vibes are strong with these timepieces as they have been made to follow exactly the appearance, proportions, and materials used by the historical models. Even the lumes on the indexes and hands have a weathered effect and the dials have what is known as the tropical effect. Collectors will instantly note the use of classic Omega broad arrow hands.
Flashback: The Speedmaster goes back to 1957 when it began life as a sports and racing chronograph, and the historical models came with broad arrow hands and modest proportions. It was the antecedent to the Moon Watch that became one of the greatest watchmaking icons of all time.
In other news: Omega released a Blue Side Of The Moon this year. This watch comes with blue ceramic all around and continues the Moon narrative within the Speedmaster line.
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL: KEEPING IT CLASSICAL
Overall theme: Glashütte Original's modest line up of novelties points to a measured approach in light of a slow luxury economy but the watches are interesting nonetheless. Key pieces like the Senator Excellence Panorama Date and Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar are based on the in-house movement launched in 2016, Kaliber 36. Speaking of the Panorama Date, this one-of-a-kind complication celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Line extensions include the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date powered by Kaliber 37, Glashütte Original's integrated column wheel chronograph with 70-hour power reserve.
Star watch: Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar
Did you know: The moon phase function of this watch is the most precise one at Glashütte Original till date, being accurate to 122 years, thanks to a wheel with 135 teeth.
The X factor: Unique little design touches include the double G logo acting as a counterweight on the central seconds hand. The watch also comes with poire hands, which are a classical feature of Glashütte Original perpetual calendars.
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