BaselWorld 2018 Day 1 highlights: Tudor, Breguet, Jaquet Droz, Harry Winston, and Patek Philippe
2018 BaselWorld news
TUDOR: DOWN MEMORY LANE
Inspired by a watch from the mid 1920s, Tudor releases a new collection called the 1926. These pieces take a markedly different route from the brand's wildly successful Black Bay line. Alternating numerals and hour indexes encircle the dial which is domed and decorated with a honeycomb embossing. The words Rotor Self-Winding set in a smiley-face format is a throwback to the brand's early years. Cases come in steel or steel and gold, while dials are done in black, opaline or silver, and there are four sizes: 28mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm.
Buro loves: The 1926 full steel in either 36mm for ladies or 39mm for men
Special feature: The white dial 1926 comes with blued steel numerals, indexes and hands which appear black or blue depending on the angle of the light
Did you know: Jay Chou is the official ambassador of the Tudor 1926
Other hits: Black Bay GMT for the Pepsi inspired blue-and-red bezel, Black Bay Fifty-Eight for the vintage-style design and slimmer profile
BREGUET: MARINE AMBITION
After launching the new Marine Equation of Time in 2017 which had an updated case design, Breguet is back with a completely new line of Marines. Sporting central integrated lugs and a new wave motif guilloche dial, the Marine 5517 collection includes gold models in pink or white gold as well as titanium. The latter, however, does not come decorated with a guilloche, but rather, a sunray finish on the dial. Apart from the time and date model, there is also a Marine Chronographe 5527 and a Marine Alarm Musicale 5547.
Buro loves: The blue dial Marine Chronographe 5527
Details galore: Look closely at the counterweight of the seconds hand and you'll see the nautical symbol for the letter B, which of course stands for Breguet
Did you know: This is the first time that the Marine collection has a titanium watch
Other hits: Breguet has also released a new Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat with an enamel dial and peripheral rotor, as well as a Classique Extra-Plat 38mm in pink gold, and a new Reine de Naples
JAQUET DROZ: ART IS ALL AROUND
Its metiers d'art know-how is one of the greatest in the industry so Jaquet Droz makes the most of it this year. The Petite Heure Minute line with its small off-centred dial affords ample space for the artisans' creativity. Other than the usual miniature painted dials, they try their hand at a technique called Smalta Clara, also known as plique-a-jour, creating a majestic tiger's face on two colour variations. Dragon themed watches continue as well due to demand from the North Asian market. For these aficionados, Jaquet Droz has made the Petite Heure Minute Relief Dragon which has a dial in brecciated jasper and a 3D relief engraved gold dragon.
Did you know: This is the first time that Jaquet Droz has offered plique-a-jour dials
Unique pieces: Being an expert on automata, Jaquet Droz has also made a signing machine that is fully mechanical and can replicate your signature perfectly. In addition, the manufacture debuts the first pocket watch bird repeater
Other hits: The Grande Second line introduces two new variations: A skeletonised model and new Clous de Paris-themed pieces
HARRY WINSTON: OCEAN OF LOVE
It's been 20 years since the House of Harry Winston introduced its sporty Ocean collection, and most of the new pieces have been dedicated to women. Precious stones in all the colours of the rainbow lend their spectacular beauty to the pieces, which have been crafted with Harry Winston's unique brand of creativity. The House dedicated one watch, the 20th Anniversary Biretrograde Automatic 36mm, to this momentous occasion, although other novelties are just as eminent, particularly the Ocean Waterfall Automatic 36mm.
Did you know: Gem setting on the Ocean Moon Phase 36mm has been done not just on the mother-of-pearl dial but also the sapphire crystal layer
For the men: Ocean Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Automatic 42mm
Other hits: The Premier Precious Moon Phase Automatic 36mm with its aventurine dial in either orange or blue
PATEK PHILIPPE: CRAFTSMANSHIP IS EVERYTHING
When even Patek Philippe has launched its own Instagram account, you know that the brand has truly begun to reach a younger, more dynamic audience. Introducing novelties from all levels and all collections, the grand manufacture first released a new variations of the Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524 including one smaller sized model ref. 7234 for ladies. The Aquanaut got dressed in orange a colour which is not in Patek Philippe usual milieu, but collectors will find a way to love it eventually.
Star watch: It's a toss-up between the world timer minute repeater ref. 5531R as it combines cloisonné enamel with technical depth and horological heritage, and the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740/1G because Nautilus.
Did you know: Ref. 5531R is the first minute repeater world timer to chime the local time instead of home time
Buro loves: Still in the men's watch category, the perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5270P with its beautiful matte finish salmon dial; also exceptional is the ladies chronograph ref. 7150/250R
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