The most exciting fashion scoop we’ve heard for a long time: Phoebe Philo, the former creative director of Céline (now CELINE), is launching an independent fashion house, bringing her distinctive aesthetic under a namesake brand.
For months, rumours have been flying about Philo’s potential return to the global stage. Since her exit from Céline in 2017, the designer has slipped into the folds, but not from fashion consciousness. She’s known for being a bankable asset to the fashion world, with not only a loyal, cult-like fan following but also cinching her place as a critic favourite. Vanessa Friedman, the NYT’s resident voice for all things fashion, writes of Philo’s comeback, “thousands of women’s fashion prayers are finally answered”.
“Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,” Philo wrote in a statement. “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.”
Details about the actual deliverance of her label are scarce for the moment. Whether the first collection, set to release in January 2022, will be unisex or purely womenswear is unclear.
Philo’s brand has already received backing from LVMH, who is acting as a minority investor. Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, touted Philo as “one of the most talented designers of our time”. Philo stated that she’s had “a very constructive and creative working relationship with LVMH” over the course of her career. The LVMH group has labelled this as an entrepreneurial endeavour, one they will support Philo in.
The designer is known for her effortless designs; subtle yet avant-garde detailing and a delicate balance between masculine and feminine (prior to Céline, she held the helm at Chloé, where she was similarly praised for her unique artistic vision).
“Céline really became recognisable for its lifestyle of ‘less is more’, quiet confidence, and subtle luxury,” Gabrielle Boucinha, founder of popular archive Instagram account @oldceline, told us last year. “Every single detail has really been thought out and you realise that Phoebe thought of something you needed before you knew you needed it.”
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