Le Bon Funk: A cool cavern of natural wines and unconventional food
A rebel with a cause
Foot through the door, the vibes at Le Bon Funk instantly ring an effortless blend of class and aplomb. It could have been the dim lights, its sophisticated playlist serving up the perfect background noise, or the impressive bar aesthetic. We can't exactly be sure, but these guys have definitely nailed the equation to a striking first impression.
The thing is, Le Bon Funk isn't like any other establishment from The Lo & Behold Group. Instead, the new elusive bar down on Club Street prides themselves on curating a haute list of natural wines. This means throwing out textbook methods as well as renowned names that most aficionados would be expecting to see in a bar.
In return, you get zero additives and processing aids repped by a refreshing breed of boutique wines scoured from around the world — spearheaded by head sommelier, Josée Yeomans. We savoured a sweet Chablis (made of 100& Chardonnay), an orange liquer (also known as skin-contact wine), but our favourite had to be a mix breed of red (Xinomavro) and white (Roditis) that eschewed the dryness of a typical glass of red, while gliding down silky smooth and well-bodied.
Here, expect wines by the glass to change daily; altered based on the day's climate or mood and energy of the space. It's an antithesis to constricting traditions — you see Le Bon Funk is kind of a rebel in that sense.
Same goes for its food. Helmed by chef-owner (and Burnt Ends alumnus) Keirin Buck, the menu ropes in unexpected ingredients of various regions and heritages transpired by Buck's international palate. Chef on a plate, so it seems. First came housemade sourdough slices accompanied with pâté grandmére (made from pork), which was possibly one of the best and most addictive pâtés we've had to date. Flavours were bold and punchy, while expertly balanced. Just like Buck's inventive take of the local breakfast favourite, kaya toast — that turned out to be an aerated form of foie gras atop toasted bread slices, witholding a sliver of cedar jelly in between.
If you want something cleaner, opt for the fresh platter of vegetable crudités, served with a dip of whipped roe. And if you're down for furred game, try the rabbit boudin blanc — stuffed in a tender sausage sleeve, and glazed with chicken liver and pork reduction. To accentuate its flavour profile, the ambitious plate is also teased with carrot puree and a generous shaving of black truffle.
While your sweet tooth might be itching for a decadent spoon of chocolate to sum up the meal, take a chance on Buck's celery custard and buckwheat crumble. Surprisingly enough, it bodes a comforting end to the unpredictable experience at Le Bon Funk.
29 Club Street, Tel: 6224 1490
Opening hours: (Tue-Sat) 5.30pm-12am