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The Business of Fashion on Instagram

The Business of Fashion on Instagram

An essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs all over the world.

Which are the best schools for undergraduate #fashiondesign? Swipe for a closer look at those institutions in the USA, UK, France and Italy that obtained a  badge of excellence  for their overall performance across factors like learning experience, career opportunities, reputation and more.

Our #BestFashionSchools2019 assessment is of course global and covers schools around the world: to explore the full report, click the link in bio. Some institutions chose not to actively participate in this year s assessment and as such some reputable programmes may not appear. This does not mean they are not worthy institutions which merit students  consideration. It simply means we did not have enough data to include them. [Link in bio]
Which are the best schools for undergraduate #fashiondesign? Swipe for a closer look at those institutions in the USA, UK, France and Italy that obtai
An iconic Indian textile, emblematic of Gandhi s struggle against colonial rule, made a guest appearance at the recent launch of Kourtney Kardashian s wellness website Poosh. #Gandhi and #Kardashian? The reality TV star s Eve Lom wash cloths are made from muslin sourced from India. Muslin is also known as khadi: the hand spun, hand woven cloth at the heart of Gandhi s struggle for independence and a politically infused symbol of Indian-ness.

What Gandhi himself would have made of this iconic textile appearing on the site is anyone s guess. But in the century that has passed since Ghandi s time, khadi has come to have many different meanings. While global brands like Levi s, Anthropologie and Issey Miyake regularly use it for its earthy and spiritual image, the #textile still suffers from an image problem in other quarters. Nonetheless, it is big business.

In connecting society, clothing and personal identity with political decision making, Gandhi s vision of #khadi was a forerunner of today s ethical fashion movement. Gandhi believed khadi could help India gain economic independence from British rule, a system which saw Manchester clothing imports all-but wipe out the Indian cotton industry. He exhorted Swadeshi (economic nationalism) and encouraged Indian citizens to spin, weave and wear khadi and burn their foreign imported clothes on public bonfires.

Today, khadi s powerful symbolism as the  fabric of freedom  has taken on new resonance as a form of  home-grown luxury  in the context of India s growing economic power. Between nostalgia for a simpler socialist past and hopes that the textile could help weavers share in India s shining capitalist future, the very idea of khadi remains hugely emotive in India, with cinema and popular culture often using it to emphasise patriotism and Indian identity.

Learn more about the #fabric, its powerful history and future on businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]  : Aman Makkar for @bodicebodice
An iconic Indian textile, emblematic of Gandhi s struggle against colonial rule, made a guest appearance at the recent launch of Kourtney Kardashian s
Anyone wondering why there has been an apparent boom in #Levis T-shirts around the streets of New York, Berlin and Mumbai will do well to explore our must read of the day. The company has made a concerted effort to grow its business beyond bottoms   namely jeans and khakis   to tops, especially the Levi s logo T-shirt. The strategy seems to be working as the company estimates it now sells a T-shirt every second. How did they do it?

Levi s first introduced the red tab  batwing  logo on the back pocket of its 501 jeans in 1936 to differentiate its #denim from competitors . The logo then appeared on T-shirts in 1967. Its popularity waxed and waned over the years, including a resurgence in the 1990s. That proved key to its most recent success, as twin waves of 90s nostalgia and #logomania swept the fashion industry.

Levi s was quick to capitalise on its suddenly trendy T-shirt. The company has a strategy, dubbed  Centre of Culture,  where it amplifies its brand by partnering with of-the-moment icons, says Jonathan Cheung, Levi s head of design. Recent examples range from Supreme and Off-White to Peanuts, Liverpool Football Club and Stranger Things.

The increasingly ubiquitous #logo is a physical manifestation of #LeviStrauss & Co. s recovery from its  lost generation    the in-house term for the period in the early 2000s when consumers abandoned the brand for fast-fashion rivals. Under Chip Bergh, who took over as chief executive in 2011, Levi s prospects have soared, with revenue increasing 14 percent to $5.6 billion in 2018. But, the key for Levi s will be to build on the batwing s recent success without oversaturating the market. Continue reading on businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]  : @gettyimages
Anyone wondering why there has been an apparent boom in #Levis T-shirts around the streets of New York, Berlin and Mumbai will do well to explore our
Have you heard about sneaker bots? Powered by technology, they complete shoe purchases within seconds of a drop going live. Case in point: the release of Adidas  highly anticipated Lundmark sneakers today. For users that weren t amongst the lucky winners of a raffle to shop the shoes, trying to snap up a pair from the remaining supply online can seem like an impossible task to achieve.

At House of Carts, a members-only chat group on the Discord platform, sneaker resellers therefore swapped tips and tricks to be the first to learn about the drop and to complete orders on Shopify s Yeezy Supply storefront as quickly as possible. But even lightning reflexes likely wouldn t have been enough to cop a pair of Lundmark Reflectives. However, House of Carts is also a hub for people looking to  cook  sneakers   the term for shoppers who deploy scripts or bots that automatically complete purchases within seconds of a drop going live.

Information about where to buy these programmes and how to set them up is easy to find online, with bots capable of snapping up coveted Yeezys in seconds are selling for as little as $200 plus monthly fees. And it can be worth the expense. Adidas set the Lundmark s price at $220, but it s expected to sell for around $1,000 on resale sites. A bot that manages to snag even one or two pairs will easily make back its cost.

Bots can cost anywhere from $200 to $1500 in addition to monthly maintenance fees, which can be as high as $500. With names like Cyber, SupBot, Dashe and Sole   and slick website designs to match   many of the most popular and expensive bots and automation applications sell out just as fast as the latest Off-White Nike collaboration.

What are the risks for users of bots and are brands doing anything to crack down on this parallel economy? Continue reading on businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]  : Paco Freire/SOPA Images/LightRocket via @gettyimages
Have you heard about sneaker bots? Powered by technology, they complete shoe purchases within seconds of a drop going live. Case in point: the release
Earlier this year, the fashion industry lost one of its most prolific and beloved talents. #KarlLagerfeld was widely admired for his Renaissance mind and unparalleled work ethic, creating collections simultaneously for the storied houses of #Chanel and Fendi, in addition to his namesake label. Following an inspiring tribute show at the Grand Palais in June, a new project aims to keep the memory of the late designer alive:

This September during #ParisFashionWeek, the Karl Lagerfeld brand will release a limited edition collection of white shirts. Using one of his most beloved styles, artists, actors, models, designers and friends of Lagerfeld have been tasked with creating their own version of the iconic look. And because Karl s lucky number was 7, seven of the final designs will be replicated 77 times each and sold for charity at a price of  777 per piece. All proceeds of the shirt sales will be donated to the French charity  Sauver la Vie,  which funds medical research at the Paris Descartes University.  : @karllagerfeld
Earlier this year, the fashion industry lost one of its most prolific and beloved talents. #KarlLagerfeld was widely admired for his Renaissance mind
Are ballet flats the new dad sneakers? The menswear market is pirouetting toward an unlikely style for Spring 2020. A flat shoe with a rounded toe, typified by minimal design in materials such as leather and suede, the ballet flat was a popular style   for women   in the mid-2000s. But it has made an unexpected appearance in men s runway shows last month, with designers as diverse as Dries van Noten, Thom Browne, Jil Sander and Bode incorporating the footwear into their collections.

The emerging trend, whether intended for shock value or in earnest, signals a possible sea change in the multi-billion-dollar global footwear business may be in the offing: the long-awaited demise of the chunky #sneakers that have become ubiquitous on men s and women s runways for the last few years. Retailers and forecasters alike are noticing an appetite for something other than ostentatious styles that have dominated the market since the Balenciaga Triple S emerged. Whether consumers will instead buy into ballet flats en masse, or some other, less-bulky #footwear, is an open question.

To be sure, not all of these designers are making a conscious turn away from the sneaker boom. Sneakers still represent but a part of the $24 billion US men s footwear market, up 11 percent from 2013, according to market intelligence firm Mintel. That means there s room left for retailers to capture an audience eager to buy into what s next, be it another hyped Nike sneaker drop or a Dries van Noten leather flat. Menswear buyers say the prevalence of flats is a sign the tide is turning. But, retailers and designers alike are hesitant to declare the death of the chunky sneaker, especially since it s difficult to always draw a clear line from a runway trend to commercial bestsellers. Instead, the Spring 2020 ballet slipper offers another glimpse into the neutralisation of gender barriers in fashion, rather than the beginning of the next sales phenomenon. What are your thoughts on this trend? Continue reading on businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]  : @indigital.tv
Are ballet flats the new dad sneakers? The menswear market is pirouetting toward an unlikely style for Spring 2020. A flat shoe with a rounded toe, ty
It s easy to dismiss all of the work that goes into producing the intricate details of an #hautecouture gown. In the spirit of #TBT, we therefore take a closer look at the latest #Chanel haute couture collection, the first one under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld s successor Virginie Viard. From pearls to flowers, feathers and other embellishments: see how the skilled hands of the house s artisans put the finishing touches on the looks, then read what Tim Blanks had to say about the collection on businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]
It s easy to dismiss all of the work that goes into producing the intricate details of an #hautecouture gown. In the spirit of #TBT, we therefore take
When #Amazon first launched Prime Day in 2015, the e-commerce giant was teased by the media for starting  the Internet s Worst Clearance Rack.  Fast forward four years and Amazon has moved past these growing pains. During last year s Prime Day, Amazon sold a record 100 million products, and although it does not disclose exact sales figures, estimates suggests that Amazon made $4.19 billion during the 36-hour sale. This year s Prime Day will run two full days and so it s expected that Amazon will once again break spending records.

So where does that leave other retailers? The opportunity to compete with Amazon on Prime Day   or at least draft off their success   is enormous, analysts say. Last year, 40 percent of shoppers who spent money at Amazon on Prime Day also made purchases at competing retailers, according to management consulting firm A.T. Kearny. Prime Day has created a halo effect and shoppers are looking everywhere, not just on Amazon.

The online retailer s largest rivals have already announced they are hopping on board to compete. Target is planning  Target Deal Days  over the same days that Amazon is running its Prime promotions and eBay will launch its  Crash Sale , the name being a jab to Amazon s site crashing during Prime Day last year. Walmart will also release thousands of deals and discounts and it will run these promotions longer than Prime Day.

To be sure, most, if not all of these competing retailers routinely match Amazon s prices, and this hasn t done much to stop Amazon from winning over some of their customers. But, that doesn t mean brands can t benefit from stepping into Amazon s territory. In our latest read, we break down how every retailer can capitalise on the #PrimeDay opportunity [Link in bio].
When #Amazon first launched Prime Day in 2015, the e-commerce giant was teased by the media for starting the Internet s Worst Clearance Rack. Fast f
EXCLUSIVE | Lady Gaga partners with Amazon for long-awaited beauty launch. In an exclusive interview, the singer, actress and new-found beauty entrepreneur gives us a first look at her new cosmetics line, Haus Laboratories.

The brand draws inspiration from Gaga s early days as an aspiring artist in lower Manhattan, applying drugstore #makeup to form what would become her signature look. Starting in September, Haus will sell kits combining lip gloss, lip liner and all-over colour.  Colour is completely transformative   it s powerful, it s beautiful, and it s how I found my voice with makeup,  says #LadyGaga, who has long positioned herself as the embodiment of authenticity and inclusivity. Indeed, #HausLaboratories is set up to be the opposite of the filtered, Facetuned brand of  authenticity  spawned by the Instagram era.

Lady Gaga has immense ambitions for what she terms her  start-up.  Her end goal of building a global cosmetics empire is clear from her choice of retail partners: Haus Laboratories will be the first major beauty brand to launch exclusively on #Amazon. But the decision is not without risks. Though cosmetics sales on the site are growing fast, it has yet to cement its status as a beauty destination, or prove it can launch a high-profile brand in the spaces.

Continue reading on businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]  : @hauslabs
EXCLUSIVE | Lady Gaga partners with Amazon for long-awaited beauty launch. In an exclusive interview, the singer, actress and new-found beauty entrepr
H&M Group stunned observers in 2018, when its first-quarter results showed that its inventory levels had surged above $4 billion. The news came hard on the heels of an unexpected drop in quarterly sales in late 2017   an early warning of the pain to come. The company s problems sent the share price plummeting to its lowest level in more than a decade, but the inventory levels have proved the more persistent challenge. Between 2014 and 2018, its inventory levels nearly doubled as designs missed the mark with consumers and sales growth slowed. While five years ago, it held just 90-days-worth of inventory in stores and warehouses around the world, more recently, that level has topped 140 days, according to Citigroup calculations.

Underlying H&M Group s problems is a failure to adapt fast enough to shifts in technology. As the company s customers migrated online, it failed to move with them. Its old-school logistics model has also struggled to keep up with the new breed of ultra-fast-fashion e-tailers, and rival Inditex s famously efficient supply chain. Around 80 percent of H&M Group s manufacturers are based in Asia, making it harder for the company to respond swiftly to trends unfolding in core markets in Europe and North America.

Can H&M survive and what is, or rather should, the group be doing to turn things around? Explore our in-depth case study, created exclusively for the #BoFProfessional community. [Link in bio] #hm
H&M Group stunned observers in 2018, when its first-quarter results showed that its inventory levels had surged above $4 billion. The news came hard o
In a world where consumption is increasingly moving online, how should the performance of physical retail stores be measured? What metrics make sense in a retail landscape that is seeing double-digit, compounded growth in e-commerce, while brick and mortar stores struggle to eke out single-digit lifts?  asks BoF contributor Doug Stephens.

Physical #retail stores are not only a powerful media channel; they re now the most manageable, tangible and measurable #media channel available to a brand. Unlike digital media where the consumer s true level of interest or engagement can be debatable, a physical store can validate the consumer s actual physical presence and participation in the experience. Consumers can connect directly and intimately with them. And, increasingly, stores can measure the causal outcome of that physical experience.

So, the key to effectively measuring the true productivity of a store is found by focusing on a metric already quite familiar from the marketing side of the industry but until now has never been applied to physical #stores. The key metric is establishing a value per physical media impression   a metric most retailers aren t even paying attention to. Read the full article at businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]
In a world where consumption is increasingly moving online, how should the performance of physical retail stores be measured? What metrics make sense
The fur industry betting on influencers for a comeback. This year, Saga Furs hired Bryan Grea Yambao, better known on Instagram as Bryanboy, to design a series of fur-focused capsule collections. The first five-piece collection quietly went on sale on Luisa Via Roma in April, with a more robust marketing campaign planned for autumn. A second, larger line is due for release next year. It s rare for Saga to sell fur directly to consumers; as the industry s second-largest auction house, its main business is in connecting fur farmers with buyers, turning a profit by taking a commission from each sale.

Until recently, the #fur industry depended on growing business in the West. But political challenges in Europe and the US are affecting production and trade. Just two weeks ago, Ireland announced a phased ban on fur farming, following in the footsteps of Norway, Luxembourg and Belgium, which all announced bans last year. Los Angeles and San Francisco are banning fur sales, while New York s city council is considering a similar law.

Over the last two years, animal rights activists have successfully encouraged a number of top-tier luxury brands, including Gucci, Michael Kors and Burberry, to stop using fur. The steady stream of brands joining the movement is still continuing   most recently, Prada said it was ending its use of fur in May.  Consumers won t be fooled,  says PJ Smith, fashion policy director for The Humane Society of the United States, about the Bryanboy campaign.  The fact is that consumers simply don t want products that cause extreme animal suffering, and savvy companies are responding by changing their ways rather than clinging to an outdated past.  Read the full story at businessoffashion.com [Link in bio]  : @gettyimages
The fur industry betting on influencers for a comeback. This year, Saga Furs hired Bryan Grea Yambao, better known on Instagram as Bryanboy, to design

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