Off-schedule SS21 shows we loved: From Raf Simons’ fashion “horror” movie to Celine’s sporty show in Monaco
The good kind of surprises
The strangest of Fashion Month's may be over, but designers continue to inspire us with their vision for spring '21, opting for presentations off the official calendar. Below are some of our highlights.
It's official: Raf Simons is finally doing womenswear for his namesake brand. He presented the SS21 collection in the form of a short film, entitled Teenage Dreams. Drawing inspiration from his favourite movie classics, such as Hair, Alien, Alice in Wonderland, Scream, Barbarella and Blow-Up. Models crawled into the fantastic room through holes in the wall, in colourful turtle-necks with slogans (such as: Welcome Home Children of the Revolution, Disorder, We Fall like Love), XL sweaters, velvet evening gowns and capes with psychedelic prints. The film had a surreal mood, thanks to the gorgeous flower set with a moss carpet and vibrant magic trees (created by Simons' long-time collaborator, the Antwerp-based florist, Mark Colle).
This season, Hedi Slimane took Celine girls to Monaco, the most luxury destination on the French Riviera. The models strode around the Louis II stadium to the extended version of Princess Nokia's record "I like him" in chic athleisure: think crop tops, raincoats with signature Triumph motifs, mini-shorts/track pants and baseball caps. Another runway surprise was served with an exclusive appearance of Kaia Gerber, who missed all the other shows to rock the sporty Celine catwalk in a black leather blazer, denim shorts, and cat-eye shades.
Due to the pandemic, Mugler's muse Bella Hadid could not travel to Paris. And so, the brand's creative director, Casey Cadwallader decided to feature her digital avatar in his fashion film, instead. In the video, URL Bella not only wears the looks from the SS21 collection, but also transforms herself into an imaginary centaur with wings, who flies over the Palais Garnier. Other real models stroll around Paris rooftops, take midnight car rides, and pose in a typically Parisian apartment with golden mirrors, parquet floor, and marble chimneys in perfectly tailored suits, LBDs, and bodysuits.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
Charles Jeffrey asked his entourage to pose for him in the multi-coloured knits, tartans, and op-art suits from the SS21 collection. Designed during lockdown and entitled "The Healing", it is the product of collaborative work. Jeffrey wanted everybody to participate (even his interns hand-stitched the embroideries remotely from their homes). The surrealistic 64 portraits, taken by the iconic image-maker, Tim Walker, celebrate life, fashion, sexiness, and queer-culture. All pictures were published in a special zine, that you can order here.
Lanvin's Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli decided to skip Paris Fashion Week, and staged an IRL event in China in the historic Yu Garden. Style-wise, Sialelli's SS21 collection focused on the Art Deco silhouettes with a modern twist: the models adorned beautiful evening gowns — a contemporary interpretation of Jeanne Lanvin's robe de style with a bow on the front — tailored leather suits, and tops with puff-sleeves.