ICYMI: Giorgio Armani’s rant against trends, Raf Simons joins Prada, and Puma’s big step towards sustainability
Fashion by the 'gram
Giorgio Armani shares harsh words about the fashion world.
The legendary designer Giorgio Armani shot off some heated comments at his Emporio Armani show in Milan, blasting journalists' fixation on trends and imploring them to "get to the bottom of it, what is the thinking behind what we do." He also went on to compare the rape of women to certain fashion designers' advertisements that sexualise women "in a provocative way, half naked" that makes women "feel pressured into looking like that." His choice adjective: "unbefitting". It was an uncharacteristic outburst, but Armani conceded that "I am at a moment when I can say what I think", which seems fair enough for the 85-year-old designer.
Raf Simons is going to Prada.
In a surprise press conference, Prada announced that it would be bringing on board the Belgian designer Raf Simons as a co-creative director starting 2 April 2020. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada will share equal creative responsibility for the output of the Prada label, and their first collection as a duo will be presented in September 2020 for the spring/summer 2021 season. It's a major first for the industry, and leaves many wondering what its effects will be.
Puma x First Mile collaborate on sustainable sportswear.
Sportswear brand Puma is taking a big step towards sustainability with its collaboration with First Mile, a recycling network that closes the loop on supply chains by turning plastic waste into recycled materials. Puma will be producing a collection of shoes and apparel from recycled plastic, and so far the collaboration has already diverted over 40 tonnes of plastic waste (close to 2 million plastic bottles' worth of plastic) to being reused.
Megan Rapinoe is Loewe's spring/summer 2020 campaign star.
Megan Rapinoe, the captain of the American football team, is the surprise star of Loewe's current season campaign. Rapinoe, who's lensed with a defiant expression by the photographer Steven Meisel under the art direction of M/M Paris, is also the star of a series of short films directed by Benn Northover and commissioned by Loewe. The photos of Rapinoe are part of the campaign's triptychs of images, which center around the idea of distortion.
An exhibition dedicated to Christian Louboutin's work at the Palais de Porte Doree.
It's no exaggeration to say that Christian Louboutin is one of the most important shoe designers of this generation. His work is thus being celebrated and recognised by the Palais de Porte Doree museum in Paris, which aims to reveal the designer's inspirations, creative processes, and vision. A large number of shoes will naturally be exhibited, most of which have never been seen by the public before.
Kimono exhibition is opening at the V&A in London.
The Victoria & Albert museum in London launched a new exhibition dedicated to the traditional Japanese kimono. The exhibition, titled 'Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk', explores the significance of this style of clothing and its evolution on and off the runways and throughout the consciousness of fashion designers the world over. That includes haute couturiers like Cristobal Balenciaga and John Galliano, who heavily referenced and riffed on the form for his collections while designing for the house of Christian Dior.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista makes his debut at Kenzo.
The Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, previously at Lacoste, showed his first collection as the Creative Director of Kenzo at this season's Paris Fashion Week. Baptista's new direction for the house is a more clearly focused one, and the collection referenced the nomadic spirit of Kenzo Takada through smart and commercial clothes. As for the famous tiger prints, those got a more painterly reworking through the works of the painter Julio Pomar.
Canadian fashion mogul Peter Nygard is under investigation for sex trafficking.
Peter Nygard, the Canadian multimillionaire owner of Nygard International (they own several sportswear brands), is currently being investigated for sex trafficking. This follows prior accusations of sexual assault, and the case is hot on the heels of the recently convicted rapist Harvey Weinstein and sex offender Jeffrey Epstein.