10 menswear anti-rules for the modern gent

10 menswear anti-rules for the modern gent

A guide to ditching the guide

Text: Andrea Sim

Forget navigating the labyrinth of sartorial do's and don'ts — here are 10 anti-rules that set the pace for the changing face of menswear

The tip of a necktie should gently brush the top of the belt. Half Windsors are meant for classic collars, while full Windsors go hand-in-hand with spread collars. Menswear from its very foundation, has been laid with traditions and rules that a single misstep calls for a diatribe thinly veiled by a witty veneer. God forbid, match a tan leather belt with black derbys and be lambasted by the keepers of the menswear bibles. But, where's the fun in dressing up if you're constantly told what to do, and what not to?

In the face of a new era of dapper dandies, here are 10 instances that break the rules in the contemporary game of menswear. Forget your suit-to-skin tailoring and pass up the necktie for a neckerchief. No questions asked, and no judgements passed. Remember, #SorryNotSorry.

1. Forget the necktie
For a... neckerchief. Eschew all flight attendant jabs with a scooped neckline. 

2. Forget the shivering break
For the... exceptionally cropped trouser. We call this the high roller. 

3. Forget the classic leather belt
For a... rope around the waist deliberately left hanging. Cable ties à la Christopher Kane for that industrial look.  

4. Forget the Oxfords, brogues and derbys
For the... slip-on loafer. Even non-Michele fans should reap the benefits of the new menswear slipper. 

5. Forget the Oxford shirt
For a... basic tee. Sinfully comfortable, so get on this already.  

6. Forget the matching suit
For a... pyjama set with a razer-cut blazer thrown over. Way to roll of bed and hit the ground running. 

7. Forget the definitive tie length
For the... accessory worn insubordinately undone. Back to school, and still breaking the rules.

8. Forget the suit-to-skin fit
For the... rakish appeal of slack tailoring. The key is to look like it's entirely meant to be. May the best tailor win. 

9. Forget the tucked shirt
For the... untucked camp-collar shirt, given shape with a belt effortlessly worn over. 

10. Forget the artfully broken suit
For a... bold print-on-print pairing that defies all rules. Relinquish the notion of pairing similar fabrics and sticking to the same colour family. Work it however you very well please.