Editor's Picks: Top 5 looks from Paris men's fashion week SS16
1. Louis Vuitton
It's a testament to the vision of Kim Jones that he has been able to escape the trap of many a designer working for such a storied house like Vuitton; that is, derivative collections that merely rehash house codes without a fresh and relevant edge. Far from being passé, Jones turned to Thailand's Lahu tribe for inspiration this season and delivered another covetable collection. Our favourite? The bold first exit: A blazing red and rich indigo silk reversible souvenir jacket embroidered with cranes, layered over a silk viscose baseball shirt accessorised with a blue 'Louis Vuitton' print scarf and, blink-and-you'll-miss-it, a silver pearl necklace. Killer.
Post-show, there were mixed reactions to Alessandro Sartori's latest menswear offering. "Where were all the traditional lace-ups?" questioned one on-looker. "All very young and colourful," commented another in response. "Different to what we've seen before." Which, really, is the whole point. Berluti is renowned for its hand-patinated formal leather shoes and classic menswear, so it was refreshing to see Sartori push the boat out a little further from show and experiment with sportswear and a more daring (read: bright) colour palette. Case in point: This all-white casual ensemble accented with an eye-catching cobalt blue leather weekender and punchy green sneakers. (P.S. Bought a pair of Berluti Playtime sneakers. They are the freaking bomb.)
3. Dior Homme
It comes as no surprise that designer Kris Van Assche — since leaving his eponymous label to focus on Dior Homme — has injected more of his personality into the maison. Usually a somble affair turned out in shades of black and grey, the latest spring 2016 offering showcased liberal applications of colour (shots of canary yellow and high-impact orange) as well as experimental use of prints and patterns (camouflage and Argyle). But we couldn't stop thinking about this incredibly luxe and lightweight (you have to feel it to believe it) navy crocodile coat. Double-breasted for the win.
What is Paris fashion week without the hallowed house of Hermès? Veronique Nichanian, ever the trans-seasonal designer, delivered another poetic collection marked by elegantly crafted blazers and generously cut floating trousers. Besides the new Cabacity tote bag (that handsome saddle-stitched calfskin carry-all), our eyes were transfixed on this zip-up blouson made from supple strips of watersnake in mocha, slate grey and ivory, smartly paired with a monochrome cardigan and finished with a loosely tied neck scarf. Pro tip: You won't have to mortgage any assets if you start saving now.
You may be unfamiliar with this Parisian brand, but let us assure you: This one is a winner. Imbued with that je ne sais quoi French insouciance, designer Alexandre Mattiussi captures the Paris cool kid spirit with his bleached double-denim ensembles, oversized summer coats, and tracksuit pants paired with tweed jackets worn over woollen pullovers. In particular, we're a big fan of this super-light billowing coat worn over a striped pullover, tucked into slim-cut jeans, and anchored by the season's key accessory: White leather sneakers. And notice how these Ami kicks come with velcro-straps? Top of the wish-list.
To see all our coverage of Paris men's fashion week SS16, click here.