Milan Men's Fashion Week FW19: Marni’s defiance, Versace’s bondage and (gasps!) Dolce & Gabbana
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. If black is the iconic colour of Dolce & Gabbana, symbolising sensuality, elegance, tragedy, love and tradition, the ambience at the show was rather lacklustre, of grave sadness actually. It was exceptionally quiet (amongst the media) with attendance perhaps out of obligations. Obviously, most of the Chinese media was not present. For us, despite not requesting for a show ticket (first time ever), we still received an invitation. To be honest, we hesitated. But we thought, everyone needs a second chance. Let’s attend the show and see what the duo will present this season. Chinese campaign saga and drama aside, the collection was actually splendid, true to Dolce & Gabbana’s DNA of seductive elegance — brilliant brocade garments are covered with precious decorative motifs that pay homage to some of the most extraordinary masterpieces of Byzantine art in Italy; magnificent pyjamas in fine silk twill; velvets tuxedo suits that epitomise the most extravagant eccentricity. This Fall-Winter 2019 collection takes us back in time to the cultured sophistication of Sicily’s high aristocracy. That’s probably the winning factor, doing what is genuine and what they know best. Sticking to this strategy will be a good recovery comeback, well… at least for now.
2. Smells like teen spirit… defiant and fierce. Stepping into Marni Fall-Winter 2019 in the gritty underbelly of an industrial building, speakers were assembled in the black boom box. Designer Francesco Risso was backstage wearing a bathrobe-lookalike-coat loosely belted and donned a beret-ish beanie with a dangling pom-pom, seemingly one of the models (but not). As the show started, an enchanting remix of Claude Debussy’s “Prélude à l’Après-Midi d’un Faune” played. An invasion of emotionally untamed atypical models proliferated the runway alike fierce youth in an underground party, probably what Kurt Cobain and his band members would have adored. Tailored silhouettes were playfully reinterpreted and layered with sporty accents and eye-popping prints. Not forgetting a manifesto of layered pyjamas, hi Risso!
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. Marni's ear-covering beanies.
2. Versace's bondage-printed silk shirts. Clearly, this collection aims to create a conversation about what menswear is today by empowering people to explore and express the various aspects of their character through style choices.
3. Versace's badge-patch bag, because why not?
4. Duck-head umbrellas from Dolce & Gabbana. A sartorial gentleman would never get dressed with a shabby accessory.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
1. Versace Look #16: Sharp tailored suits with safety pin details walk next to see-through plastic pants
2. Versace Look #32: Embroidered lace details are placed on knitwear and worn with the most classic Prince-of-Wales pants and the Chain Reaction sneakers.
3. Versace look #36: Ford logo merch. A limited edition collaboration with Ford was inspired by the excitement of buying your first car. Excitement and aspiration of owning something like an extension of one’s personality, something connected to the idea of being a man.
4. Versace Look #46: Embroidered boxer-style shorts are worn with button-up dress shirts.
5. Dolce & Gabbana Look #45: Extravagant velvet tuxedos reflected the cultured sophistication of Sicily’s high aristocracy.
6. Marni Look #12: The layered looks and a seemingly random clash of elements, colours, accessories, prints, and shapes is Francesco Risso’s take on Marni’s menswear.
7. Marni Look #20: A riot of acid-bright colours appeared in relaxed silhouettes with extra-large volumes and unexpected combination of textures.