Who’s missing at Milan Fashion Week? What happened at Etro when the cameras weren’t rolling? We have the answers and then some

Yays and nays

Text: Jolene Khor

For those here for a quick fix, Milan Fashion Week day 4 recap above; for everyone else, fashion editor Jolene Khor reviews Tod’s, Sportmax and Etro below

As far as gimmicks go, Tod's served up the best of the lot. With the upbeat La Mer, L. 109: III Dialogue Du Vent Et De La Mer symphony diffusing in the air, Gigi Hadid opened the show — Tod's Thea bucket bag in one arm, a wide-eyed Frenchie in the other. An adorable distraction. Editors left the show starry eyed, only a little unsure what the looks were. No matter, because in Tod's we trust to bring the best of Italian countryside to the city. Naturally, the use of leather is exceptional. This season, they're rendered split-grained with polished varnishes, saddlery stitching and light down padding for stylish protection 24/7. As for the Gommino, the laces on the classic shoe are updated with the same rubber studs seen on the heels.

The collection may have been inspired by "snowy slopes and icy sidewalks of the super cities of the world" as stated in the show notes, but the clothes are far from frigid. Living up to its namesake, the treatment of the wet weather uniforms were athletic yet fluid, pretty, even festive. Among the 1980s wide-shouldered goose down coats and inconspicuous sky blue work sleeveless work shirts tucked under drawstring necklines were also turtlenecks bearing diamond motifs, party jersey dresses and slouchy knit skirt sets bathed in multi-dimensional sequins. On that note, Sportmax continued to explore technical advances in its pursuit of the fashionably comfortable, notably the houndstooth weave coated with a high-tech veil to set it aglow (above). Jacquards are also lighter thanks to viscose or acetate inserts.

Here's a hypothetical: you're moving into the woods, indefinitely, with a thousand press members and street style photographers. What would you pack? We're thinking... wrap dresses layered with fringed cardigans in printed chenille during casual herb-picking strolls; cropped checkerboard jumpers or Western shirting when heavy-lifting is involved; intarsia knit suede ponchos and faux fur blanket coats if the temperature dips during the night; maybe even a wispy tiered dress or a fluttering silk georgette gown for entertaining. Such were the thoughts of Etro's Veronica Etro when she put in motion the designing of her fall/winter 2018 collection. The traditional Etro insignia, the paisley, too is appropriated for glamping in dusty, golden sunset hues.

All coverage of Milan fashion week fall/winter 2018


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