Best shows from NYFW SS18 Day 4: Tibi, Alexander Wang, Creatures of the Wind and Dion Lee
New York Fashion Week
TIBI: BLAZE OF GLORY
The Collection: Amy Smilovic sent out relaxed suit after relaxed suits (looks 1, 4 and 6), tailored in mismatched checks, accented with a selection of intriguing belts. The garter styles raised our eyebrows (looks 2 and 13), the croc leathers cinching just one side front seam are smart (look 4 and 5) and the PU corsets are a must-have (looks 3, 6, 8, 17). That was as buttoned up as Smilovic got though. Aside from the asymmetric denim finished with contrast stitching and silver hardware (looks 15 and 17), the rest of the collection flowed a steady stream of colourful mock neck sweaters (looks 24 and 25) and roomy paperbag trousers (looks 32 and 52) before floaty ankle-grazing maxis (looks 42, 43 and 44) rounded up a classic Tibi collection that proffered something for every version of the fluid tomboy.
Soundtrack: Conway Titty's "It's Only Make Believe" was an uncharacteristically retro pick for a gender nonconforming show.
Buro Loves: Bermuda shorts in denim, linen and corduroy — especially if they're painted in pastels.
ALEXANDER WANG: GREATER THAN A SUM OF ITS PARTS
The Collection: We suspect Alexander Wang had a field day in his design studio, running with scissors, playing fashion decoupage. Were those pants a jacket in their past life (look 2)? Where did the rest of the trench coat go (look 5)? Do we still call them camisoles if they only exist in halves, welded with pinstripe shirts, sweaters and destroyed T-shirts (looks 10, 11 and 15)? His punk influences attest to the staying power of streetwear, but Wang's crafty experimentations — particularly the button down bra combination (look 19), yin and yang shirt dress with lace inlay (look 23) and mixed material ensemble (look 29) — make for excellent showcases of the designer's imagination, setting his tailoring skills a cut above those of his screen printing peers.
The Set: An alley in Bushwick, Brooklyn became the set for the show, with models arriving on the scene in a #WANGFEST party bus.
Something You Might Have Missed: Models wore feather headpieces with slogans such as "After After Party" and "Secret Location". We RSVP yes.
CREATURES OF THE WIND: GREEN THUMB
The Collection: If you didn't know that the trench coats in the latest Creatures of the Wind collection were made from reused materials, you'd never be able to tell. Inspired by the style of career women in the 1970s, designers Christopher Peters and Shane Gabier took apart vintage coats to create a series of new, colour-blocked trenches in neutral shades (looks 1 and 5). Along with pieces in bright leather (looks 16 and 20) and sheer florals (look 14), other notable pieces included a leather trench with bright watercolour marks (look 16), a knee-length skirt assembled with black and blue madras (look 10), and a long white dress with sheer, crackling sleeves (look 8).
I Spy: Daisies embroidered at the bottom of one of the trenches (look 5) and adorned on skinny belts (looks 3, 7 and 8).
Worth The Investment: Colour-blocked trenches (looks 1 and 15) make for stylish layering between seasons.
DION LEE: A NEW LEASE
The Collection: Reconstruction is a persistent leitmotif on day 4, first with Wang, then with Lee. But if Wang is the wild child in art class, Lee is the disciplined disciple who strives for perfection, whose magic in the nip and tuck is most evident upon closer inspection. Let's see. There's the capelets with long sleeves (looks 4 and 6), finely shredded high-low skirts (look 22 and 31), and furry throws tied in several spots at the front (looks 22 and 24). It may be a man's world, but the Dion Lee woman is not having any of it.
Buro Loves: The silky coral green dress showing off a woman's sexiest spots (look 34).
Something You Might Have Missed: The tone on tone on tone trend (looks 22, 25, 31 and 39) has already bled onto the streets of New York City.
Catch up on all coverage of New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.