Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Qasimi and Songzio take LFWM SS18 by storm
London Fashion Week Men's
SONGZIO: CANVAS TO CATWALK
The collection: A departure from his signature monochrome palette, South Korean designer Zio Song dialed up the whimsy this season by opting for boardwalk stripes in hues of crimson, pumpkin and Yves Klein blue. Making a case for white summer suiting, crisp daytime ensembles were updated with tassled fringe lining the seams of trousers and dress shirt (looks 14 & 24). Songzio, known for its translation from canvas to catwalk, retained its artisanal touch with brush stroke prints.
Favourite look: That watercolour printed button-down paired with resort striped shorts make for a perfect vacation get-up (look 3).
Try this now: Perhaps the most unexpected styling move: Pairing daytime suit with studded sandals. Avoid looking overly casual by keeping the hue constant.
QASIMI: UTILITARIAN OASIS
The collection: Entitled "Free Fall", London-based Qasimi's Spring 2018 collection was a call for simplicity in a time of information overload. Looking to the Bedouin tribes of the Middle East as inspiration, the lineup was a meeting of modern construction and traditional craftsmanship. Functionality was key in this collection. Think: Teva sandals, numerous pockets, military parachute textiles and nylon cargo pants. Committing to a strict colour scheme of mustard, sienna and khaki, the pieces took utility and work wear to the next level.
Lesson learnt: You don't have to sacrifice style for comfort, and accidental coolness is totally attainable with the rise of gorpcore — that's right, the new normcore grants you a free pass to dress for function over fashion.
Worth the investment: Any of the longline outerwear makes a great alternative to your typical trench.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY: EUPHORIC UNITY
The inspiration: Scottish born designer and radical creative Charles Jeffrey has always been a little enigmatic, but what with the current political drama in the UK, this collection provided a moment of clarity on uncertain days. As a line in the press release put it, "It's not enough to stay woke — we need to be alive." The collection sought to subvert every societal norm in the book, from sexuality to gender to traditional British dress.
The collection: An explosion of exaggerated silhouettes, in-your-face print and OTT headwear, Charles Jeffrey first standalone show did not shy away from a spectacle. In all its unabashed kitsch, it was an assembly line of characters, each committing to a print or silhouette. Everything from royal blue tartan to Beetlejuice stripes were present. Amidst the visual drama were also more wearable entries. The cropped embroidered denim jacket (look 15) and graphic jumpers (looks 1, 4, 6 & 24) are worth a mention.
Buro loves: The unapologetic styling of a yellow trenchcoat with sensible pinstripe trousers (look 13). Maximalism is the new minimalism, and this is statement dressing done right.