Best shows from LFW FW18: Eudon Choi, Teatum Jones and Shrimps
London Fashion Week: Day 5
EUDON CHOI: CORNISH CHARM
The inspiration: The Cornish countryside is known for its idyllic views, so it's no surprise why modernist British artists were drawn to it for creative respite during post-World War. Eudon Choi saw the same Cornish charm that St Ives had to offer, and dedicated his fall/winter 2018 collection to the British coastal town.
The collection: Taking St Ives as his muse for the season, Eudon Choi delivered a soft approach to the usual tropes one might expect from a nautically inspired collection. Fisherman knits were seen in the form of extra large scarves and chunky sweaters, while rope details were kept to a tasteful minimum, featuring solely on the accessories. At times the collection was polished, with its Prince of Wales-checked totes seen wrapped in clear acrylic. Other times it took on a more raw finish, with frayed asymmetric midis and haphazardly gathered tops. Paying homage to the maritime stories of St Ives, Choi teamed up with renowned milliner Noel Steward to create an updated modern take on the fishing sou'wester. Weatherproof wear is still on a steady rise, and we can see why.
Upon closer inspection: Those singular earrings were textured gold discs, complete with a rough freshwater pearl — intended to evoke those scavenged treasures one might find on a weathered coast. They were designed in conjunction with jewelry brand Alighieri.
TEATUM JONES: FOR WOMEN, BY WOMEN
The inspiration: For fall/winter 2018, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones spoke to 25 women who embodied the Teatum Jones ethos — creative, confident and smart. The stories of women from different ages, ethnicities and social backgrounds, were translated into three chapters of the show — joy, sadness and hope — each representing the common emotions that hit home for them all. The likes of model-activists Munroe Bergdorf and Kelly Knox, and editor-in-chief of 10 magazine Sophia Neophitou were featured in a film that screened throughout the course of the show.
The collection: Beginning with head-turning shades of crimson and fuchsia, handkerchief hemlines and belted co-ord suits set the tone for the show. Progressing into moodier shades of navy, duck-egg blue and finally white, the color palette of this collection doubled as narrative tools for Teatum Jones. This was a collection inspired by and dedicated to women, and the clothes reflected just that; these were ensembles that captured not just Teatum Jones' technical mastery, but penchant for storytelling.
Buro loves: The commitment to diverse, inclusive casting. It's about time fashion reflected the real, and Teatum Jones is one brand that has truly stuck to its guns.
SHRIMPS: UNABASHED GIRLINESS
The inspiration: Reinterpreting notions of romance, Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland took cues from the work of American poet Gertrude Stein and artists Jean Cocteau and Otto Dix.
The collection: Faux furs are Weiland's main medium of choice, and this season she pushed the envelope on what they can portray — botanical motifs, Cocteau line drawings, and stamped hearts. And as always, unexpected colour combinations came in teams of teal, mustard and generous doses of pink. The Shrimps brand thrives on being unapologetically saccharine, and just when you thought that prints of "A Shrimp is a shrimp is a shrimp is a shrimp" and copious amounts of floral embroidery was too much, it works in the Shrimps universe.
Worth the investment: Shrimps' Antonia faux pearl-encrusted bag (looks 2 and 8) are covetable as they are, but this season Weiland decided to enlarge them into supersized totes. If you're looking to dabble into maximalist accessories, this is an ideal place to start. Plus, the extra room is surely sufficient justification.
All coverage from London Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.