Show reviews: Highlights from MFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 3
Milan Fashion Week
SPORTMAX: GRAPHIC INFLUENCES
The inspiration: This season, Sportmax looked to Morocco and its famous textiles and handicrafts. Graphic patchwork was inspired by handmade tiles (looks 3 and 4) while nomadic rug patterns were translated onto sleeves (looks 17 and 20).
Textures: A maximalist collection replete with diverse fabrications and textures. Think: Suede, nappa leather, pony, python and cosy knits crocheted (looks 51 and 54) or enhanced with swirling piping (looks 49 and 52).
The details: Zippers, D-rings and snap fastenings cleverly introduced to simple and classic silhouettes to provide the wearer with freedom of movement — crucial, especially in the context of cold weather layering. Coats, knits and dresses were slit on the sides to reveal those said layers.
ETRO: FREE STYLING
The inspiration and soundtrack: Veronica Etro reminisced on her college days in Central Saint Martins in '90s London to deliver a free-spirited FW16 collection. Stepped out in tune to Missing by Everything But The Girl and Nothing Compares 2 U by Sinead O'Connor, the ensembles were characterised by the rich blend of Etro fabrics, all nonchalantly piled on with a folk and grunge attitude.
Something you might have missed: The outerwear are all designed to be reversible. Plaid coats lined with jacquard could be inverted for evening affairs; military parkas dropped its utilitarian vibe when flipped to reveal opulent brocade; and velvet jackets featured printed silk linings. As the show note declared: "This highly functional seasonless wardrobe is ready for both day and night".
Buro loves: The weathered leather motorcycle jackets (looks 7 and 18) intricately embroidered with the Italian house's paisley print, giving each piece much deserved streetwear gravitas.
TOD'S: STITCHED IN TIME
Pre-show: Guests were invited to arrive at the show half an hour early to witness the live art installation by Vanessa Beecroft. Lying on a craftman's bench, surrounded by other models, was supermodel Karlie Kloss getting hand-stitched into a leather outfit by one of Tod's veteran artisans. Entitled, 'VB Handmade', the performance was the Italian contemporarty artist's interpretation of the skill, quality and craftmanship that goes into each of Tod's creations.
The collection: The FW16 show was a tribute to the unsung heroes of the Italian house — that is, the artisans and craftsmen. With 'stitching' as the leitmotif, the leather RTW pieces, shoes, bags and accessories were all held together by exquisite needlework in contrasting colours. For example, what appeared like tartan from afar was in fact artisanal cross-stitching applied to blazers coats and sweaters.
I spy: The fashion pack will be leading a charmed life next season. First Prada, now Tod's. Trinkets and charms, tassels and furry tails dangled off sweaters (look 11 and 17), as well as belts, bags and Gomminos. A prophetic sign that pilling on the charms is next season's way to accessorise.
VERSACE: HITTING THE GYM
The collection: Fall/winter 2016 sees the Versace woman on a military workout, but not without breaking a few rules. Sports-inspired attire took a colourful turn with candy-coloured shades infused with athletic stripes on ribbed collars, chokers and gloves (looks 11, 16 and 37), while power suiting and tailoring (looks 2 and 28) were welcome additions for the urban woman looking to channel her inner athlete.
Bringing sexy back: While it was a surprisingly refined collection, Donatella Versace's signature breed of seductive dresses still remained. Slinky open-back slip dresses shimmering with oversized paillettes had enough sex appeal to appease loyal fans.
#SquadGoals: Filling up the ranks were the who's cool of supermodels, and included the likes of Karlie Kloss, Jourdan Dunn, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Adriana Lima, Natasha Poly and Irina Shayk
For all our coverage of Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.