Show reviews: Highlights from LCM fall/winter 2016 — Day 1

Show reviews: Highlights from LCM fall/winter 2016 — Day 1

London Men's Fashion Week

Text: Ievan Darwin

Image: Getty Images

Kicking off men’s fashion week in London, Topman Design paraded oversized nightwear as daywear, 1205 with minimalist uniform-like pieces, and Craig Green reminded us why he is still one of the nation's best menswear designers


The music and atmosphere: As the show started, the audience was greeted with a crescendo of bass that set the tone for a nostalgic yet modern rock-and-roll vibe. A nod to the '70s was apparent with loose-fitting shirts, elongated cuffs and widespread pants commanding the runway.

I spy: Gender-bending looks, a recurring theme in the menswear realm since last season (SS16). Crushed viscose silk velvet and floral prints paired with over-dyed coats and cropped knits gave each look a modern take on androgyny; albeit juxtaposed with oversized beanies, frayed denim jackets and peace sign wallet chains. 

Favourite look: The 70's golden crushed velvet trousers and the cropped flying jacket.

Something you might have missed: Seems like sleepwear has become the new daywear as Topman Design gave a luxe twist to tailored pyjamas and robes, making them suitable for public use. Time to dress up your nightwear.  

Overheard from the front row: With notable attendees the likes of singer Nick Jonas and male model David Gandy, many commented that if a guy could carry off some of the softer feminine pieces, then he truly is confident with his masculinity.


Set design: The show took place at the Royal Institute of British Architecture with a relatively intimate and salon-like show space. With a square shaped runway and the meticulously timed walk of the models, it was show centered around precision — a key inspiration for Brazilian designer Paula Gerbase.

The collection: Known for its elegant, tailored womenswear, 1205 — the brainchild of Gerbase — showed its first menswear show during the first day of London Collections: Men. Sleek with clean silhouettes and suits crafted from lightweight nylon, the collection at times veered more towards sportswear than tailoring.  

Buro loves: The khaki and camel outerwear pieces in sheepskin.

Lesson learnt: Making quality, purity and restraint the three design aesthetic pillars for the collection, Gerbase has managed to create a classic and understated menswear collection. Our takeaway? Quality and a judicious hand are important ingredients in a recipe for success. 

Overheard from the front row: 1205's first menswear show was well received — "Handsome", "Very wearable and smart", "One to watch". It is evident that Gerbase's modern and radically precise point of view in womenswear has translated well to menswear.


The collection: Using bold quilted materials combined with craft and textural elements, the highly utilitarian collection by Craig Green was all about gentle deconstruction. Olive-green outerwear and khaki combats were dominant as the Craig Green man hid himself under layers (and layers) of textiles. He went on to reveal himself after, with leather patched pieces that transformed into voluminous jackets and over-sized culottes; languidly stitched together by pieces of white fabric.

Try this now: Martial art layering. Think: Judo and Taekwondo. But, wearable and effortless with loose, trailing shirts and knotted jackets paired with frayed patchwork and dragging, bloated trousers.

Worth the investment: Craig Green quilted jackets with revealing straps. Statement pieces that are a must-have for the next season.

I spy: A designer to watch. Bringing a sense of nostalgia to the show with strong mellow, dramatic colours, the fabrics used were aged and tarnished on purpose to imbue a sense of memory. One of the few British designers redefining menswear, we're not letting Craig Green out of our sight. 

Lesson learnt: Sometimes you just need to unleash your inner ninja with hooded jumpsuits. After all, isn't fashion all about experimention and more importantly, having fun? 

Related stories:
Street Style: London Men's Fashion Week — Day 1 

To read all our coverage of London Collections: Men fall/winter 2016, click here.