Shanghai Fashion Week fall/winter 2019: Shushu/Tong, Yingpei Studio and Veeco Zhao
We came, we saw, and we conquered. Fashion writer Ryan Sng rounds up the best shows daily from Shanghai, below.
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. Vacuum-packed, fake blood-splattered flowers were attached to Shushu/Tong's collection notes, which opened with the command "Say you love me, or I'll kill you"... Let's just say we knew then we were in for a wild ride.
2. Sitting outdoors for Yingpei Studio's presentation at Tank Shanghai was exceedingly pleasant, thanks to the breeze and sunshine of the day. Potted plants — purposefully mounted on trolleys — decorated the rotunda and brought a natural touch to the Brutalist space. However, strong winds caused several of them to tip over before the show's start, and each time, jumpsuited set operators bounded over to right them. Interactive art at its finest.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. Shushu/Tong's red contact lenses threatened to steal the show. Whether used to display your constant, seething inner rage, or to repel fellow commuters with the false threat of pink eye, these would be the chicest accoutrements for flaunting your antisocial tendencies.
2. Velvet bows festooned Shushu/Tong's hairband, which was anything but twee. On a shaved head, they read as a badass revolt against the performative demands of girlhood. Has our search for the new pussy hat finally ended?
3. Size isn't everything (puh-lease), but nevertheless, we were mightily impressed with Shushu/Tong's earlobe-strainers.
4. Veeco Zhao's nerdy, wire-rimmed glasses had a strand of pearls dangling off a crossbar. They looked like a spectacle chain that had snapped, lending the look an enticingly unhinged vibe.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
1. This writer can hardly ever resist a well-cut round shoulder, and look #12 from the Shushu/Tong show scratched that itch real good. Oh, the frayed edges and gathered bust detail were nice touches, too.
2. Dexter, but make it fashion. Shushu/Tong's blood-splatter checks (as seen in look #18) were the most on-the-nose reference to their FW19 muse's murderous side, but if the very thought of blood makes you queasy, just pretend it was an accident with cranberry juice.
3. Drawstrings have been a major trend at both Seoul and Shanghai fashion weeks. Shushu/Tong used several to create pinched-and-puffed volumes on look #23's black satin dress, styled for day over a striped Peter Pan shirt.
4. Look #31's diamond-quilted velvet dress with a Mandarin collar didn't fit neatly into any stylistic category. Neither costume-y nor Chinoiserie, it was nice to see designers lean gently into traditional dress, without pressing the pedal too hard.
5. The standard issue skirt suit is given several twists in Yingpei Studio's look #2 — a longline jacket, exposed seams and lack of collar gave the look a chicly deconstructed feel.
6. Several women in Yingpei Studio's audience were wearing the designer's pleated or knotted suiting. They doubtless found plenty to love in Chaplin-esque look #4's draped body.
7. Bunched-up fabric, yet another emerging trend from East Asian designers, added just the right amount of interest to Veeco Zhao's full-skirted shirtwaister dress.
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