Seoul Fashion Week fall/winter 2019: The most surprising moments, trendiest accessories and favourite looks from the runways
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
#1: Subtlety was resolutely not the aim of D-Antidote's playful, basketball-inspired collection; at the end of the runway, models spun metallic B-balls to entertain the photographers' pit, and basketball-shaped bags vied for attention with sporty visors (yes, we know that it's an indoor sport, at least competitively). When the final exit was completed and the lights went out just before the finale, designer Hwansun Park began blasting the titular track from Space Jam, which sent a good number of audience members — presumably all '90s kids — into giggling fits.
#2: Oh Seung Kwon's Long Playing Record may have shown its latest offering at the GenerationNext Seoul space, but don't let that fool you; the unexpectedly mature design sense apparent in the clothes betrayed Kwon's almost two-decade career honing his craft for menswear brands at home and abroad. Long Playing Record may be barely a year old, but we'll definitely be keeping close tabs on Kwon — watch this space.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
#1: YCH's 'crushed' metal sheets and tubes made for some awfully appealing unisex earrings.
#2: D-Antidote's visors would protect one well against the tips of umbrella ribs in high-density crowds (for example, on a rainy day at Seoul Fashion Week. Close that umbrella, lady, we've already reached shelter *huffs*).
#3: KYE's lightning-motif, sneaker-cowboy boot hybrids are a gleeful fusion of the rural and urban.
#4: We'd like to think of YCH's stubby, blanket-stitched scarf as a wintertime bowtie; we'll take ours jauntily off-centre.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
#1: It was hard to pick favourites among Bourie's chicly wearable FW19 range, but here goes. The muted red and blue plaid of look #9 was given a jolt of interest with a white-piped collar and scalloped edges, along with a billowy sunray-pleated skirt for some effervescently womanly swish.
#2: Look #20, meanwhile, was the austere, plain-speaking cousin, but nevertheless shared the same spirit of refined ease.
#3: Many designers talk a good game about elevating basics, but Long Playing Record truly delivered. Precisely proportioned trenches and jackets — sleeves and shoulders were calculatedly overlong or dropped, and belt loops were intentionally set far above the natural waist — unbuttoned all the way up to the neckline in the back, allowing two items of outerwear to be layered over each other for a half-and-half effect. Worn plainly — as with look #25 — they still looked every bit as terrific.
#4: It's hard to hit the right balance between slouchy and conventionally feminine silhouettes — awkwardness frequently dogs most designers' attempts — but Moon J managed just fine with look #12, a tuck-darted, generously-cut pantsuit.
#5: Look #12 from YCH, starring a cropped-sleeve blazer, a turtleneck and skintight above-the-knee boots, is the sartorial equivalent of garlic, a wooden stake and silver bullet for those most life-draining of vampires — machismo-mad men.
#6: There is, shockingly, little discernible kinkiness — not that there's anything wrong with a smidge of it here and there — in Youser's high-shine, patent coat dress (look #7); if the goal was to reform a textile long relegated to sex shop bargain bins and Fashion Nova, mission more than accomplished.
#7: Like those experienced nurses who chatter away and slide a syringe into you unnoticed, Betterkind's look #4 bombards viewers with stimuli (drawstrings, plural! A zippered funnel neck! Inverted-pleat cuffs in contrast!) and lulls us into a false sense of security.