Best shows from NYFW FW18: Self-Portrait, Dion Lee and Alexander Wang

Best shows from NYFW FW18: Self-Portrait, Dion Lee and Alexander Wang

New York Fashion Week: Day 3

Text: Veronika Bondarenko

Self-Portrait flirts with volume, Dion Lee salutes the military and Alexander Wang talks business

The collection: When it comes to unique and feminine dresses, Self-Portrait's Han Chong is king. This season, his runway included stunners like the voluminous dress made from white crepe and black lace (look 27), a single-sleeve plaid number (look 7) and a long periwinkle gown with a cape-like bodice (look 19). Branching out beyond his signature style, the Malaysia-born designer also sent outerwear — voluminous trench coats (look 14) — and boyish windowpane tailoring pieces (look 5) 

Upon closer inspection: Details like the bell sleeve (looks 15 and 16) and flower lace (looks 25, 27 and 28) are Self-Portrait's running motif.

Try this now: Give a soft, flowy frock some edge by cinching it with a thick leather belt (look 29).

The collection: Lingerie, military, sensuality, utility. Those were the four words Dion Lee used to describe his show and, they managed to say jsut about everything about the collection. Second-skin dresses with strategic cut-outs (looks 4, 12 and 25) met leather jackets (looks 29 and 40) and cargo pants (look 30) — each item decorated with mesh, grommets or harnesses. Bringing BDSM to the nine-to-five are the standout looks featuring bustiers (looks 1, 3, 7 and 9) sewn into and over silk blouses and madras blazers.

Upon closer inspection: Various outfits (looks 12 ,14 and 38) were given extra dimension by tacking on additional layers of fabric using metal "clips". 

Buro loves: The mesh fishnet overlay and bra tucked into a multi-layered skirt (look 3) — an architectural take on the little black dress.

The collection: Turning to the female executive for fashion cues, Alexander Wang brought sex and power to his latest runway. All eyes were on Wang's return to NYFW (he sat the last one out) and disappoint, he did not. Reimagining The Matrix wardrobe for the working woman, he turned out sweeping coats (looks 16 and 30) punctuated with micro sunglasses, sharp black dresses (looks 1 and 2) and don't-mess-with-me detailing — namely spikes (look 1), grommets (look 16) and zippers on full frontal (looks 8, 9 and 10). 

In the front row: Anna Wintour and Cardi B were shoulder to shoulder, sparking a frenzy on social media.

I spy: The clunky — and, long-forgotten — claw hair clip had a moment on Wang's runway.

All coverage from New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.