Salvatore Ferragamo’s Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland continue to colour inside the lines this spring/summer 2019 — in all the good ways
We’re spotting a pattern here
In fashion, is there room for pause anymore? It hardly seems fair, when designers are overstretched, overworked and overwhelmed, to expect excellence uncompromised, yet the industry standard hasn’t wiggled for the stronger tides of turnaround.
The clothes must always be beautiful. For that, we will never buckle. The quality of the pieces can never suffer. This is the paramount of luxury. But what of trends, our persistent hunger for the new. Some designers are born chameleons — Miuccia Prada is the first name that comes to mind. They thrive on newness, feeding on change. This is not a fault but a gift, and talents should be seen through. Some designers of similar calibre resist overhauls. Among them Dries van Noten, Alessandro Michele (Gucci), Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (The Row). To the untrained eye, they put more of the same season after season; the keener notices nuances, poetry in the noise.
That’s how signatures are created, how icons are born. Is it too early to say Paul Andrew, who has only released his second ready-to-wear at Salvatore Ferragamo is a legend? Certainly. Though one can’t argue against the fact that he has potential for the pedestal.
Andrew’s spring/summer 2019 collection for the Italian label, one of the most diverse we've seen at Milan Fashion Week, earns a medal in chic consistency. His consummate tailoring — and that of menswear counterpart Guillaume Meilland — hasn’t relaxed (yay) and his electrifying colourblocking ways on leather separates return in seasonal hues. Azure and violet, periwinkle and bronze, teal and bubblegum make good company — who would have thought?
Just like his debut effort, Andrew shines his light on an incognito archival print from the house. Show notes read: “A lush botanical print originating from the Ferragamo foulard library” has been reimagined, peppered throughout both men’s and women’s pieces. We’re a fan of its rendition in look #12 — the print on the sleeveless 50s dress with a handkerchief skirt is overlayed with fishermen’s net. In look #40, the texture on print is repeated on a maxi night slip, only the hem is fringed. That’s pretty much as far as Andrew would go to be “trendy”, something we’re very okay with.
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