Saint Laurent cuts a fine figure, Lacoste attempts to go green and other notable happenings at Paris Fashion Week
SAINT LAURENT: GOOD TO BE BAD
Anthony Vacarrello wants us to be bad. Or at least, look the part anyway. Still riding that post-Slimane streak of '80s rock star bonanza, Saint Laurent's fall/winter collection was less of a work of art than a beautiful regurgitative curation of his finest ensembles. Let's see: we have the itty-bitty leather shorts (0 degree Celsius is just a number, right?), the slim smoking jackets, the silk blouses cut wide at the sleeves, the down-to-there necklines, the Brit boy skinny jeans and tall boots. Where Vacarrello eschews reinvention, he makes up for in detailing. Loyal fans will enjoy updating their black-on-black repertoire with his shimmering Mandarin bombers, crochet boxer belts, tassel-sleeved mini velvet dresses and Cossack hat-turban hybrids. Be sure to make room for any one of the glittering wildflower dresses (some have kangaroo pockets!) that closed the show. Now those, we'll weather the cold for.
LACOSTE: GREEN THUMB
Invigorated by the environmentally conscious spirit of René Lacoste and his wife Simone Thion de la Chaume on Lacoste's 85th anniversary, designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista "wanted to find meaning and refuge in nature". He did so by simultaneously unearthing the brand's little known relationship with Golf de Chantaco (owned by amateur golfer de la Chaume's father) and furthering the founder's commitment to championing threatened species. The results? Sessile oak engravings on jackets, pastoral pullovers with endangered Javan rhino Northern Sportive lemur and embroideries, hooded cagoule over velvet sweatpants and "souvenir shop" Chantaco printed hoodies for men; oversized polo dresses with elongated sleeves, and fluid windbreakers in all spectrum of green, hoods drawn up hiding under bucket hats — in Prince of Wales tartan, pinstripe and picnic plaid — for women.
ROCHAS: FORM, FUNCTION AND FANTASY
The thirst was real at Rochas. At just 36 looks, creative director Alessandro Dell'Acqua left us chanting, "More! More! More!" in our heads as the fashion pack shuffled out of Grand Palais into the icy streets. That's because what he sent out on the Rochas runway were clothes every serious (though dynamic) French girl would fancy. Rounded shoulder suit blazers, bow-fastened leather tops, Catholic girl dresses with bishop sleeves and no-fuss matching woolly knits were inked with glee. Seafoam green. Post-It yellow. Burnt orange. That particular shade of violet. His night-time offerings too are worthy of praise, especially the honey peach skirt with silver detailing from look 13, seen again as a slip dress under a sheer midnight cover-up in look 22, styled with snakeskin boots. For those, we nod enthusiastically. The uninspired tartan and lacklustre floral frocks though, left little to be desired.
All coverage from Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Buro 24/7 Selection