Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2019: Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten, Rochas and Kenzo
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. Neon rave vibes at Saint Laurent. Just as the looks are getting too familiar (Anthony Vaccarello’s signature all-blacks, short hemlines, and more #freethenipple sheer tops), the finale of the show transformed into a rave setting with showering motion lights. Strutting under ultraviolet black light, models walked in the mirrored kaleidoscopic show set with fluorescent clothing in shades of neon brights (neon orange, pink, green and yellow), and even the footwear glowed under UV. Vaccarello has definitely taken this interest to the next level!
2. Expect ingenuity from Kenzo’s creative directors; Carol Lim and Humberto Leon never fail to surprise with all things different. Along with the delivery of my physical show invite, a piece of biodegradable paper with pressed tomato seeds fell out from the envelope - no doubt a nice souvenir from Kenzo - to plant and harvest our own tomatoes. But more importantly, the show. A body of energetic performance emerged with dance crew dressed in tomato-print apparel inspired by Kenzo men’s 1992 show archives. While I thought the floor was moving, I soon realised that we were moving - the entire seat was moving in all directions around the choreographed dance set. What an immersive experience! This was undoubtedly one of the most experiential shows I’ve attended to date, fashion is supposed to be fun, isn’t it?
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. For the finale, in the mirrored kaleidoscopic show set, a black light unveils the contemporary, effortless aspect of Saint Laurent’s soul.
2. Floral print tights accompanying oversized puffer trench, they may look OTT together, but are styled so well on the runway that flower power gained another fan (me). A winter take on a summer-ish trend, nicely done, Dries Van Noten!
3. If anyone knows how to make an entrance, it would be done with a Rochas hat. Black, lacquered, and bold, you’d be proud to walk around with this piece of artwork on your head.
4. Those Kenzo sneakers, if they are good enough for the contemporary and hip-hop dance, they are good enough for mere walking humans like us.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
1. Saint Laurent fall/winter 2019 look #2: an ivory broad-shouldered wool coat inspired by iconic YSL muse Betty Catroux in the eighties, complete with dark shades and blonde side-swept hairdo.
2. Saint Laurent fall/winter 2019 look #21: following the strict geometry of YSL’s 1971 ‘Opium’ collection, the myth of red and gold embroideries turns into new dynamic shapes in precious materials, worn with micro-shorts, polka dot stockings and knee-high boots.
3. Dries Van Noten fall/winter 2019 look #52: a sheer and soft translucent cape delightfully slides over a copper two-piece glitter suit, complex textures with stunning styling effect.
4. Dries Van Noten fall/winter 2019 look #14: lilac is the new black. Enough said.
5. Rochas fall/winter 2019 look #33: voluminous and full, this white belted ensemble with thigh-high ivory patent boots, reminds me of a sexy serial killer’s disguise in the day... devilicious.
6. Rochas fall/winter 2019 look #37: feminine and soigné, this Rochas dress is very French — light and refreshingly ladylike, especially in the era of tacky streetwear.
7. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon revisited the tomato print from the men’s 1992 show archives. This collection is now available online. #KENZONow