Rising brands and designers to watch during fashion week: Pyer Moss, Richard Malone, Chromat, and more
Fashion month is coming, and with it the seasonal slew of multimillion-dollar/pound/euro runway extravaganzas. There's also plenty of excitement, however, to be found beyond the catwalks of fashion's biggest (and most deep-pocketed) names. We round up the scrappy young designers and brands to keep an eye on below.
Kerby Jean-Raymond's mind is constantly trained on society's big picture. Jean-Raymond's fall/winter 2016 show for Pyer Moss was a meditation on mental illness, while his and Lena Waithe's 2019 Met Gala outfits shouted out queer people's contributions to culture. The CFDA winner sat out fall/winter 2019's runway season, declaring that spring/summer 2020's show would address “the erasure of minorities and people of colour”. We can't wait to see how he delivers on that promise.
Richard Malone's clothes are not only brilliantly cut, but also sustainably-minded; the designer is committed to the use of natural fibers and recycled materials throughout his collections. He's outspoken on social issues as well, using his company's Instagram account to protest anti-abortion legislation in his native Ireland.
Becca McCharen-Tran’s swimwear label has long led the diversity charge, and also boasts impressive ethical credentials behind the scenes. The recent — and long overdue — surge of interest in body positivity may finally offer her the wider mainstream recognition she deserves.
This campy music darling — who favours marabou feathers, gigantic cowboy hats, and gratuitous sparkle — has dressed everyone from Lil Nas X and Lana del Rey to Olympic gymnast Simone Biles. Pop stars looking for a stage wardrobe will likely pop up all over Cowan's front row, where a million flashbulbs will be waiting for them.
Ukrainian label Bevza is known for sleek, minimalist designs, and started showing regularly at New York Fashion Week during the fall/winter 2018 season. Their clothes were snapped up in no time by the likes of Hollywood stars Dakota Johnson and Sophie Turner. Which high-wattage celebrity clients will designer Svitlana Bevza land next? Stay tuned to find out.
This veteran costume designer's first runway fashion show — held at his champion Marc Jacobs's New York boutique — was widely acclaimed. Needless to say, expectations are through the roof for Koizumi's sophomore showing.
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