Show reviews: Highlights from MFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 4
Milan Fashion Week
BOTTEGA VENETA: TIMELESS LUXE
The collection: In a similar design aesthetic to his FW16 men's show, Tomas Maier delivered a timeless offering of pantsuits and slick coats presented in double-faced cashmere and needle-punched checked wool; and, as such, demonstrated his uncanny understanding of what the Bottega Veneta woman wants — contemporary and functional ensembles crafted from luxurious fabrications. As with his men's collection, it was his more sombre pieces that ruled the roost: The opening monochromatic look modeled by Jamie Bochert of a black peak-lapel cashmere coat worn over a black knit top and wide-legged trousers; that classic ivory double-breasted pantsuit worn sans shirt (look 3); and that streamlined trench coat in black-and-grey checked wool, cinched at the waist with a sinuous belt, and accessorised with a soft alligator handbag (look 9). Superb.
Favourite look: That powerful ensemble of a snakeskin car coat, intarsia'ed in yellow and mocha checks, worn over a knit V-neck top tucked into a high-waisted plaid wool skirt, and matched with a yellow snakeskin bag (look 15).
Try this at home: Accessorising your look with a long nero scarf, languidly draping from the neck, for extra drama and bounce (looks 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 and 21). Werk.
JIL SANDER: METAL WORK
The collection: Jil Sander's FW16 show was another presentation on what the brand does best — restraint and precision. Immaculate tailoring, minimalist cuts and exaggerated silhouettes dominated the collection. But it was the off-the-shoulder ensembles (looks 7 and 10) and metallic fabrications (looks 16, 20 and 40) that created a little disorder in the otherwise controlled, uniform and wearable collection.
I spy: When a minimalist brand like Jil Sander dares to pepper its mainly monochromatic collection with luminous ensembles, you know that high shine materials will be taking centre stage next fall/winter. Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga presented a pared-back interpretation of the high impact trend by using lurex as the material of choice.
Buro loves: The sharply tailored boxy coats (looks 1 and 3) streamlined at the waist - a seamless blend of masculinity and femininity.
PHILIPP PLEIN: FURY ROAD
The collection: A heady fusion of panelled bodysuits, fur-collared coats, and cut-out black micro dresses; all interpreted through the hip-hop lens of Philipp Plein. Think: A gold metallic parka shouldered over a matching gold top and gold panelled tights (look 13); a full-length black lace dress paired incongruously with a black beanie and skateboard (look 29); and a snow leopard fur coat worn over a Swarovski-encrusted white top and silver panelled leggings (look 46). Part Charlize Theron à la Mad Max: Fury Road, part intergalactic space traveller. Shy wallflowers, please step aside.
I spy: A cowgirl mixed in with the whole 'Mad Max goes to space' cohort. For example, check out the wide-brimmed hats paired with slashed dresses and streetwear as seen in looks 12, 14, 19, 20 and 31.
Guest performer: Chris Brown entering the expansive Fiera showspace on the back of a reversing truck fitted with neon lights. It ain't a Plein show if it ain't big, bright and unashamedly showy.
For all our coverage of Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.