Resort/cruise 2020 report: Pre-spring fashion collections from Dior, Chanel, Prada, and more
Whether you call the season cruise or resort, the fashion collection between fall and spring is a major business consideration. Pre-spring is generally seen as more commerical than the main seasons; furthermore, it has a longer in-store shelf life, making it a key sales-driver for brands. No wonder they've turned to splashy destination runways and uncharacteristically directional fashion, to drum up excitement among their well-heeled clientele. Below, our rundown of the best pre-spring collections from fashion's biggest players, including Dior, Chanel and more.
This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose to tackle one of the thorniest issues of the age: cultural appropriation. She flew the fashion elite out to the ruins of Marrakech's El Badi palace, and sent out a collection of familiar Maria Grazia-isms interpreted by collaborators of African descent. Many of the looks were fabricated in wax prints designed by craftsmen from the Ivory Coast or textiles from Moroccan weavers; designers Grace Wales Bonner (of British-Jamaican descent), Martine Henry (of British-Ghanaian descent), Monsieur Pathé’O (from the Ivory Coast), and African-American artist Mickalene Thomas all contributed designs, making for a respectful blend of diverse cultures across the African continent.
Virginie Viard's first collection of Chanel's post-Lagerfeld era was light-filled and airy, much like the show's minimal Grand Palais set. Chanel's regular venue was decorated as an empty railway platform, with the building's Beaux-Arts architecture evoking the stations of old. It was an apt metaphor for the transitory phase the brand now finds itself in after Lagerfeld's swan song, fall/winter 2019's ski chalet extravaganza. The codes laid down by Viard's two predecessors were very much in evidence, but something new and exciting was in the air too; we'll be watching to see where the designer takes Chanel next.
Is 'peak Miuccia' already an expression? 'Cause it should be, and Prada's resort 2020 show in New York fit the bill very nicely. The designer's granny-chic flourishes for this outing included smocking, folkloric floral embroidery, large-scale appliqués, and lace faggoting on tiers of multicoloured satin. These deliberately fussy details were loosened up with flat boots, chunky socks, and loose, straight cut jackets and striped shirting, with the overall result of a quirky yet eminently wearable collection.
This cruise season, Nicolas Ghesquière had globalisation and aviation on his mind, leading him to mount Louis Vuitton's latest show at JFK International Airport. Sharp, graphic lines, sculpted forms, and metallic details echoed the airport's '60s architectural style — which coincided with the golden age of commercial air travel — and contributed to the collection's slick sense of speed and industry.
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