Best shows from MFW SS18 Day 2: Max Mara, Fendi, Prada and Moschino
Milan Fashion Week
MAX MARA: IN WORKING ORDER
The set: Show producers rolled back the covers minutes before the first model emerged, to reveal an eggshell carpet bearing a never-before-seen Max Mara emblem, foreshadowing the leitmotif to come.
The collection: It was business as usual at Max Mara; Halima Aden walked the show, as did Bella Hadid, sending down look after look in the label's classic neutral hues. The spring/summer 2018 Max Mara suits are sheer and shiny with patchwork sleeves, punctuated with laser cut skirts with hidden back slits, and a tapered workman jumpsuit or two. The It-bag is sure to be the rectangular cross-body, flushed rear to frame the excellent tailoring one comes to expect from the label. Though the lavender on white silk breathed a certain freshness elevating an otherwise archetypal palette of clean, sleek and smart Max Mara, it was the stacked logomania print that simultaneously raised eyebrows and iPhones. For better or for worse.
Buro loves: The structured trench skirts with paper bag waist, tucking in skin-tight tees meant to highlight curves.
FENDI: HOLIDAY MOOD
The inspiration: The official word is "Italian futurism meets tropical travel" in a show space enclosed with pink and blue sorbet walls, so we were in anticipation for tropical motifs that induce daydreams of the sea.
The collection: Right on schedule, an influx of oceanic hues — colourblock chevron on sheer raincoats and trenches, as well as breezy skirts rendered in sea foam blues, coral pinks and sand. Even the models' hair weren't spared. Whistling the same tune were the Hawaiian shirts bearing delicate leaf embroidered hems on short sleeves, while the striped mock neck jerseys with undies layered under see-through one pieces lend to the European-Caribbean amalgamation. Just as most tops were cut to reveal the shoulders, the waist is nipped in — through soft denim belts, elastic ruching, sporty waistbands or clever tucking through tailoring. Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld saved the best for last; we couldn't decide whether we prefer the madras on madras on madras (the stockings stole our heart) or the sequinned nude slip dresses, so we will just have to buy them all.
On front row: Bryanboy, flanked by Tina Leung, Irene Kim and Yoyo Cao, was putting on Chanel lip balm before the lights dimmed, while Singapore's Jeanette Au at two seats away took in the buzz.
PRADA: THIS IS NIRVANA
The set: Who invented punk? England, or teenage girls strumming electric chords on their fur couch? Miuccia Prada would argue that it's the latter, as evidenced by the text accompanying one of the many comic book vectors depicting curious characters (think scorned lover burning down a house, peeping tom looking into the ladies' and a Foxy Brown crime-fighter) splashed on every corner inside and outside of the show venue.
The collection: Prada spring/summer 2018 tells of the glory of youth — if you experienced yours in the '80s and '90s banging head to the The Cure, Nirvana and L7 tunes sampled in the show that is. In the spirit of Kurt Cobain and Robert Smith, Prada sent out deconstructed sleeveless jackets brushed in red paint, cropped Elizabethan brocade tops and dresses caging striped shirts with sleeves haphazardly scrunched up, patchwork muscle shirts with animal print collars, Beetlejuice pants lashed above the knees, giant fanny packs and Matrix-esque sunglasses. The winners, in no particular order though, were the oversized jackets with buttons sewn on pockets, DIY style; compression style socks worn with studded brogues and kitten heels; and that standalone hat on the second last look that we demand to be mass produced. Rock on!
Something you might not know: Miuccia Prada's brief stage presence was met with whoops and applause, the only show so far in Milan during which the usually apathetic fashion crowd expressed their hearty approval.
MOSCHINO: FABULOUS AF
The inspiration: Forget the biker babe. Sure, she's still here and still relevant, but she's not the star of this show. The subject of his capsule collection, My Little Pony, is. The walking rose bouquet is. The bouncing butterfly farm is. Heck, Gigi Hadid is.
The collection: The first half of the show was forgettable. Cute, but forgettable. The ballet references were craftily produced — his dip dyed swan dresses worn under cropped leather jackets with spiked sleeves, make for excellent albeit hefty Halloween costumes. Jeremy Scott's past Looney Tunes and Fashion Kills ready-to-wear fare were far superior. Then as if reading our mind, Scott blew the crowd out of the water with part two of spring/summer 2018. We always wanted to know what a walking tulip would look like, so we came to the right place. Scott sent his walking down the runway tossing faux petals at the crowd — straight out of her bosom. For wearability's sake (in Scott's world anyway), one recommends the purple lily dress with a magnificent train. The real showstoppers followed, in the form of multi-coloured rose bushes topped with a tropical bouquet and a creation that can only be described as a cotton candy butterfly farm. See for yourself.
Buro loves: Where the traditional designer opts for a humble bow and pithy wave, Jeremy Scott walked the Moschino runway in its entirety, wearing one of the best pieces from the collection — a holographic leather jacket destined to sell out.
Catch up on all coverage from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.