Best shows from PMFW FW17 Day 4: Paul Smith, Thom Browne and Kenzo
The final shows in Paris sent out English plaid, a procession of grey herringbone, and high-performance parkas to brave the Arctic cold. Listen to Norman Tan wrap up Paris fashion week with his last audio review for the fall/winter 2017 menswear season.
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PAUL SMITH: PLAID PATTERN PLAY
Designer: Paul Smith
Synopsis: To say that a Paul Smith show was rather 'English' may seem mundane and obvious, but from an opening of tartan suiting to traditional pattern play by way of a polka dot tie worn with a check shirt and Prince of Wales check blazer, it was resolutely and unashamedly English in nature. But this, after all, is Paul Smith — the designer famed for his wit and colour — so breaking up the sartorial offering were colourful jacquard-knit sweaters (with flashes of red and orange); a studded black leather jacket (that was #TDF); and a tuxedo-style blazer (for the day) embroidered with vibrant feathers.
THOM BROWNE: A TAILORING TRIPTYCH
Designer: Thom Browne
Synopsis: Do you know why Thom Browne — an American designer who lives in New York —chooses to show his menswear collection in Paris instead of the Big Apple? Because his shows are cerebral rather than commercial, artistic in their inclination instead of glitzy in their presentation; attributes that lend themselves better to the City of Lights which celebrates and fosters progressive fashion. For fall/winter 2017, Browne presented three distinct chapters for his menswear show: First, models cautiously hobbled out on sky-high boots wearing shrunken body suits and skull caps with bulbous eyes; second, models parading outfits made from 2D suit pattern templates and asymmetric eyewear (one glass larger than the other); and third, wearable suiting, waistcoats and jackets paired with symmetrical eyewear and normal brogue footwear. Everything was crafted from heather grey herringbone cloth and peppered with hundreds and thousands of small cloth-covered buttons. Beautiful, slightly creepy, but ultimately a brilliant tailoring triptych.
KENZO: ARGYLE, ARCTIC, ACTIVEWEAR
Designers: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim
Synopsis: Inspired by their discovery of an Arctic surfing subculture, Leon and Lim designed a fall/winter 2017 wardrobe that combined urban menswear (think: Oversized parkas, hoodies and long shirting) with high-performance garments (such as insulated ski suits and snowboarder-like boots) in a heavily layered active collection. When it came to the colour palette, garments ranged from vivid brights like raincoat yellow and winter blues, to a degrade rainbow effect on elongated cable-knits as a nod to the Aurora Borealis. Fun, fresh, and contagiously confident. A strong return after a flat spring/summer 2017 showing.
STAY TUNED FOR HAUTE COUTURE:
Our daily fashion week coverage continues with Paris Haute Couture spring/summer 2017. Stay tuned for our our insightful reviews of the best shows.
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See all our coverage of Paris men's fashion week fall/winter 2017.
Special thanks to GlocalMe for their U2 portable wifi device that has made reporting live from Paris men's fashion week — from Instagram Stories to filing these audio reviews on-the-go — easy, peasy, lemon squeezy.