Best shows from PMFW FW17 Day 1: Issey Miyake Men, Louis Vuitton, Kolor, Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten
Bonjour Paree! It may be freezing here in the City of Lights, but the menswear action on the runway is #lit. From the Louis Vuitton collaboration with Supreme that everyone is talking about, to the oversized knitwear at Dries Van Noten, follow my audio reviews as I report live from the best shows at Paris men's fashion week.
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ISSEY MIYAKE MEN: BLACK AND BLUE ALL OVER
Designer: Yusuke Takahashi
Synopsis: I love a good billow, and Takahashi didn't disappoint with generous coats and parkas painted in a palette of ebony, slate and deep cobalt. Interest and depth came in the form of a colourful paint-splattered print — resembling the streaky bark texture of silver birch — applied to jacket collars, shirting and a full-blown trench, while footwear was of the chuck-on-and-go variety; namely, slip-on loafers and Chelsea boots in black with shots of yellow and orange.
LOUIS VUITTON: UPTOWN MEETS DOWNTOWN
Designer: Kim Jones
Synopsis: You know that Billy Joel classic about the uptown girl looking for her downtown man? Well, what if you can have both? Citing the multitude of styles and codes that co-exist in New York City as his reference point, Kim Jones combined the savoir faire of the French maison with the alluring street culture of The Big Apple — delivering a studied insouciance inspired by artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol. Models stepped out in half-tucked shirts and V-neck knits layered under off-the-shoulder trench coats; loose and wide pleated pants (not dissimilar to what we've seen in Zegna in Milan); and fils coupé pyjamas fluttering below cashmere coats. "No New York City men's conversation is complete without Supreme," asserted Kim Jones, and with that, came a fashion orgasm of Louis Vuitton x Supreme New York collaboration of Keepalls, sling bags and bum bags in fire-engine red leather plastered with the iconic Supreme logo. #Need
KOLOR: A FURRY PATCHWORK
Designer: Junichi Abe
Synopsis: With all the fur that we've seen so far in Milan and Paris, PETA must be having a heart attack. Junichi Abe showed red plaid shirting and utilitarian workwear, but it was all about the patchwork embellishments on his jackets and coats that really held court; in particular, in and around the pockets — think: strips of fur, zips and grosgrain ribbon. But the accessory du jour was the footwear. A hybrid of clogs and Teva sandals, the vamps were covered in fur whilst the back had Teva straps to secure the heel.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO: ROBES, CAPES AND BOILER SUITS
Designer: Yohji Yamamoto
Synopsis: The master does what he always does best — generous coats and amorphous silhouettes. Let's talk favourite looks: Those waistcoats layered over long camel coats; that white shirt with a jaggered collar; those reversible red and vermillion robes with hand-painted linings; white lab coats over a black base of shirt, jacket and trousers; and that final exit of a black boiler suit worn with a black wrap cape. Winning all round.
DRIES VAN NOTEN: STREETWEAR ASCENSION
Designer: Dries Van Noten
Synopsis: Has Dries Van Noten — often cited as the 'designer's designer' known for crafting intricate and cerebral menswear — been bitten by the street wear bug too? Well, if his latest collection is anything to go by, it looks like he's down with the full dose. But that's a good thing. Super wearable and covetable pieces came in the form of oversized striped pullovers with light denim jeans, and super-sized double-breasted blazers (verging on coats) anchored with square-toe Chelseas. Yes.
SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Check back tomorrow as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go live reporting from Paris men's fashion week fall/winter 2017 season.
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