Show reviews: Highlights from PMFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 5

Paris men's fashion week

Show reviews: Highlights from PMFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 5
The closing day of Paris men’s fashion week had us hankering for the louche ensembles offered at Lanvin Homme and the optimistic colour-blocked separates at Paul Smith

Location: The Paris Event Center in the far-flung 19th arrondissement. A barebones warehouse space selected for its unvarnished timber beams, rustic concrete flooring, and bolted steel pylons. (P.S. They served coffee before the show. Thank you. Especially since it was the first show on a cold and overcast Paris morning.)

The collection: Unbuttoned shirts and flowing trenches. Lucas Ossendrijver embraced the devil-may-care attitude that has marked Paris men's fashion week and sent out look-after-look of louche ensembles styled with long tousled hair (like you just don't care). This carefree spirit was best captured in the black trench coat loosely belted over a grey waistcoat worn clean on the skin and accessorised with black beaded necklaces (look 4); a red round-shoulder top coat buttoned at the neck over a loose tan pullover and worn with long green trousers (look 16); as well as those two wide-lapel overcoats — one in black (look 1) and another in camel (look 39) — asymmetrically belted, and billowing wildly down the catwalk, in time with The Paper Bride's hypnotic track, Poni Hoax.

Buro Loves: That black shearling leather jacket in look 15 with an exaggerated collar worn flipped up for extra 'tude. And on the back of the arms? Red and black fringing for even more drama. Yes.

The invitation: Thick cards individually hand-painted with nine vibrant stripes — from bright citrus orange to peach and light grey — hinted at a colour-blocked offering for fall/winter 2016; an extension of Paul Smith's bright offering in SS16 perhaps? 

The collection: As it turns out, rich and audacious colour was, indeed, the order for the day. As the lights flicked on and the soundtrack kicked into full gear — a lively remix that included AC/DC's Highway to Hell, The Stone Roses' Fools Gold and Queen's Under Pressure — Sir Paul sent out joyous ensembles that fused tailoring with sportswear staples. Yes, the sportification of menswear continues unabated. Key standout looks? That bright lime overcoat (with a high-button neck closure) layered over a double-breasted dove-grey blazer and peach-coloured knit, paired with purple trousers (look 2); that luxe, yet relaxed, maroon fur coat worn with a long paisley cardigan and washed denim jeans (look 21); and that hot pink topcoat clashed with a hunter green zip-up tracksuit top tucked into merlot pleated trousers (look 32).

I spy: Leather tote bags with accordion-like side panels jazzed up with bright complementary colours. An easy way to inject fun and optimism into any outfit - corporate or otherwise.

For all coverage of Paris Men's Fashion Week, click here

To revisit Milan men's fashion week, click here


Text: Norman Tan

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