Best shows from NYFW FW18: Ralph Lauren, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Oscar de la Renta

Best shows from NYFW FW18: Ralph Lauren, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Oscar de la Renta

New York Fashion Week: Day 5

Text: Veronika Bondarenko

Ralph Lauren catches island vibes, Phillip Lim indulges in wanderlust and Oscar de la Renta reimagines royalty

The collection: Is there anything better than the tropical sun accompanied by a light breeze? With a runway full of crisp cuts and harmonious shades of blue in every permutation imaginable (we spotted stone-washed denim, silk, cotton, feather, even spandex), Ralph Lauren invited guests to "step out of time and into the beauty of nature" utilising his own Jamaican home for inspiration. Whether through airy sundresses (looks 1, 2 and 4), nautical suits (looks 11, 13 and 14) or bright boat prints (looks 26, 28 and 29), the vacation suggestions came through, culminating in marvels like the skin-tight dress in shimmering primary colors (look 52).

Something you might have missed: In line with his Americana spirit, Lauren committed to patriotic palette of red, white and blue.

Spotted: A-listers Katie Holmes, Hilary Swank and Rachel Brosnahan cosied up on the front row.

The collection: The nomadic lifestyle has always been associated with art and, for Phillip Lim, it served as his latest inspiration for the runway. Bright patterns, layers and patchworks of variable textures and fits all came together to create a truly motley collection. The immigrant's sense of spirit was achieved through colour-blocked turtlenecks (looks 4 and 6), crinkled trousers (looks 12, 13 and 18) and puffed coats (look 38) — clothes that Lim, a Thai-born American of Chinese descent, is intimately familiar with. In a way, each item in the collection was a work of art onto itself, achieved through restraint and masterful play on pattern.

Upon closer inspection: The big leather satchels with long straps (looks 2, 7 and 16) are a throwback to travel accessories from the twentieth century.

Try this now: Lim's layered look can be achieved by pairing an oversized coat with a fitted dress, knotted with a chunky scarf in clashing prints (look 25).

The collection: Move over, royals of the past. Step aside, old traditions. The new fashion elite want to break rules and, according to Oscar de la Renta's creative directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, balance subtlety with statement. The rich coats (looks 1, 7 and 8), elaborate ball gowns (looks 20, 34 and 40) and burgundy dress suits (look 39) accomplished just that with placement of classic cuts with sheer lace and the odd pop of bright pink or orange color. Other surprises — all of which pleasant — included medieval unicorns (looks 31 and 32), bell sleeves (looks 1, 2 and 9) and bejeweled vine clips (looks 1, 8 and 9), small details that comprised the intricate makings of a truly regal runway.

Upon closer inspection: A classy leaf pattern served as both embroidery (looks 2, 3 and 4) and coat clips (look 8) in several outfits.

The backdrop: The domed ceiling and Greek columns of a Wall Street venue matched the regality of Garcia and Kim's de la Renta.

All coverage from New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.