PFW SS20: Bite-sized reviews about Loewe, Celine, and Issey Miyake
LOEWE: PLENTY OF ROMANCE
Favourite looks: It was poetry in motion. As the crowd quietened down and the show began, the white curtains surrounding the pristine set of the Loewe spring/summer 2020 runway started to move in unison to the music. Models in white confections took to the runway, their outfits making a dramatic entrance (and exit) as they swooshed past the audience. The light ethereal garments were inspired by the 16th and 17th centuries, and this is apparent in the intricately woven laces and high collars. Almost without warning, darker, sexier looks debuted midway, providing an interesting palette cleanser to the modern-day Marie Antoinette aesthetic.
Favourite details: The rectangular pannier skirts, in macaron shades of pastel purple and yellow, and even black and white, were such a fun addition to the show.
Favourite accessories: The mini fringed Gate bags were the perfect companions for the billowy looks. Texture was also explored in other ways, like in the heavily layered beaded necklace, or with the addition of giant pearls on an otherwise nondescript belt.
CELINE: FRENCH GIRL
Favourite looks: You know the saying ‘three’s a trend’? We’re halfway through Paris Fashion Week at this point, so there’s bound to be similarities across brands, and in this particular case, many designers seemed to have referenced the 60’s and 70’s for spring/summer 2020. But though Hedi Slimane is right on trend, there is still a sort of timelessness to his looks, from smartly cut blazers and silk blouses, to paisley dresses, and denim culottes with just the right amount of give. Parisian chic at its best.
Favourite details: Denim gets elevated with precise fits and cuts. Take, for example, bootcut jeans with an exacting flare, which nodded to the 70’s, but still stayed modern and relevant.
Favourite accessories: When it comes to mastering the art of French chic, simple is the best way forward. The jewellery was kept dainty, and the bags structured and practical enough to be worn crossbody.
ISSEY MIYAKE: FUN, FUN, FUN
Favourite looks: Wow, just wow. By far, one of our favourite presentations for the season. This was the Paris Fashion Week debut of new Issey Miyake head designer, Satoshi Kondo, and it’s safe to say that he has made quite the huge impression. Fashion can often take itself too seriously, but this show, with the models dancing, skateboarding, and the highlight — three transparent hoops descended from the ceiling and lowered onto the models waiting to wear the dresses below — reminds us that it should be fun, too. The pieces, obviously made for movement, swayed and bounced as the models jumped about, and showed off the signature springiness (and craftsmanship, really) of the Japanese label.
Favourite details: Ever needed something to help you get undisturbed rest on a plane? These lightweight jackets are just the perfect solution — just zip up and shut the world out.
Favourite accessories: Though the clothes were kept relatively simple, the accessories were tonnes of fun. Think: fringed bags that looks like dance props, and large oversized hats we can imagine little Japanese old ladies wearing to keep away from the sun.