PFW SS20: All the highlights from Rochas, Manish Arora, and Y/Project
ROCHAS: COLOUR CODE
Favourite looks: Last season, Creative Director Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented a more sombre all-black collection, but for Spring, the designer was all about making an impact with colour — a lime green blouse paired with cobalt pants, or an orange blouse with a fiery red pleated skirt — colour-blocked together for maximum impact.
Favourite detail: Even on the subtler looks, colour was introduced as thin, long swathes of fabric that trailed the models as they stomped down the runway.
Favourite accessory: Fashion has always been a bit obsessed with the ugly-beautiful, so while we reckon the slingbacks in varying shades of metallics and brights might not be everyone’s cup of tea, we appreciate the attention to detail given to the seemingly haphazard ruching, as well as squared-off heel cap finishing on all the footwear.
MANISH ARORA: KING PRINT
Favourite looks: More is more is more. The Manish Arora spring/summer 2020 collection was an explosion to the senses, with neons mixed in with pastels, and print on print for a saccharine sweet, unicorn fantasy. Inside the mist-filled room, models — including drag queens Miss Fame and Virgin Xtravaganzah — swayed to a slow rendition of Sister Sledge’s “We Are Family”, as they showed off all the OTT looks.
Favourite details: When it came to the makeup, which was done in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics, makeup artist Kabuki used unconventional materials, like large metallic lashes that fanned out, as well as leather cutouts to add to the theatrical effect.
Favourite accessory: If there was a single accessory that’s just the right amount of fun-meets-kitschy to wear in real life (instead of in a candy-coloured, fantastical world), it would be this orange-feathered pair of pumps.
Y/PROJECT: WHEN OLD BECOMES NEW
Favourite looks: What would a multi-faceted woman wear? For Y/Project’s Glenn Martens, the answer can be found in the drapes and necklines that wouldn't be out of place in the Middle Ages, as well as Bavarian-style corsets, lingerie slip dresses, and asymmetrically-buttoned garments.
Favourite details: Sky’s the limit when it comes to hemlines at Y/Project this season.
Favourite accessory: Let’s talk about chunky jewellery, shall we? At first glance, some of the necklaces and bracelets (especially the ones in pastel pink) looked like a huge wad of bubblegum had made its home on the necks and wrists of the runway models. Closer inspection reveals that they are actually naked bodies of women molded and melded into submission, something both disconcerting yet beautiful all at once.
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