Best shows from PFW SS17 Day 2: Maison Margiela, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Rochas and Lemaire
Paris fashion week
MAISON MARGIELA: M IS FOR MADNESS
The collection: John Galliano has helmed Maison Margiela for a few seasons now, but each of his collections are a constant reminder to expect the unexpected. Unlike other runway shows, don't think about tinkering with your phone and toggling between social media platforms — look down and you'll miss one of his fantastical tropes. Faux-jewel shoulder pieces (look 3), cameo pendants on sports tops (look 7), undone scuba bodysuits (look 10), sweater sleeves styled as scarves (look 26), translucent gel-like skirts (look 28); it's all in a deliberated madness that Galliano meshes these bits and bobs, coming together with the congruency of a jigsaw puzzle — something only he's capable of.
Something you might have missed: The mundane, everyday items styled as accessories. A wireless microphone in look 11, 'goggles' in look 24, a yoga mat in look 25 and headphones in look 21.
The makeup: By none other than the legendary Pat McGrath, 'metal' lips and glitter masquerade winged eye 'masks' added to the Margiela mayhem.
LANVIN: MODERN ARISTOCRAT
The collection: It's exciting how couturier Bouchra Jarrar has interpreted Lanvin. A house defined by Alber Elbaz's classic codes and flair for showmanship the last decade and a half, the stripped-down elegance we've witnessed for spring 2017 hints at an edgier era to come. One distinguished by Jarrar's architechtural lines by way of sharp dinner jackets (looks 1 & 8), cigarette trousers (looks 14 & 35) and pinstriped vests and robes (looks 3 & 21) — all without displacing the loyal Lanvin woman. Floor-length hemlines cut from satin and silk served up a side of feminity, fluidity and movement (looks 1, 4 & 19).
Buro loves: The French designer's interpretation of eveningwear. Tuxedo shirts spliced with delicate, sheer fabric and evening slips — that'll double up as lingerie — stitched to show skin (looks 2 & 12). We're thinking: That's what a ballsy aristocrat would deign to wear in the 21st century.
Worth the investment: Corsages. If Gucci hasn't sold the appeal of flower brooches the past few seasons, the new Lanvin will. Best paired with a dinner jacket and festooned with jewels (look 49).
DRIES VAN NOTEN: IN FULL BLOOM
The inspiration: Walking into a venue showcasing stunning ice sculptures frozen with flowers by Japanese botanical sculptor Azuma Makoto, we couldn't expect anything less than a collection inspired by the Land of the Rising Sun. The floral installation that lined the runway (melting away) was translated onto the collection's ready-to-wear pieces.
The collection: Japanese-influenced attire was the order of the day at Dries Van Noten's (DVN) spring/summer 2017 show. Silk trousers, souvenir jackets, and robes translated into duster coats (for those who don't dare to take boudoir dressing outside of the bedroom) were executed in kimono-inspired silk fabrics. And like all DVN collections, intricate decorative details are a must. This time, in the way of glistening beadwork and sequin embroidery — best achieved on those stunning chandelier-like turtleneck chokers and bibs (looks 31, 39 & 56). References to the Victorian age were seen through high collars and frilled Tudor sleeves (looks 22, & 42).
I spy: Clogs trending next season — more specifically geta, the traditional Japanese footwear worn with kimonos. In Milan, Bally also presented wooden clogs at its SS17 presentation.
ROCHAS: MAYBE NEXT TIME
The collection: What makes a girl fall in love with Rochas are the details. Stacked sequins and layers upon layers of deconstructed frills thrown together in a whirlwind of subversive decadence. She's girly, but never saccharine sweet. Above all, she's hardly boring at all. This season, Alessandro Dell'Acqua's tulle frocks lacked the zest he's established since helming Rochas. Cupcake dresses came in plain pastels and primaries, paired with the occasional cardigan (look 11) and silk utilitarian shirt (looks 7 & 21) — what we imagine the Rochas girl would wear on an off-day.
Lesson learnt: Look 6 — which paled in comparison to the rest like Jennifer Garner would next to Lady Gaga — is probably what an actual librarian would wear. Not the cool, pseudo working class woman at Balenciaga, but more Karen Wheeler (Mike and Nancy's mum) on Stranger Things. Don't remember what she wore despite being obssessed with the show? Our point exactly.
Satin for spring: Seen on the open-toe clogs at Rochas and also at Lanvin, Fendi and Jil Sander to name a few, next season's It-fabric comes in high sheen.
LEMAIRE: COVERING NEW GROUND
The collection: Designs by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are known for its high brow take on functionality and sensibility. Zippered vest-dress combos (looks 5 & 10), outerwear styled as dresses (looks 11 & 33) and those signature utility trousers (looks 13, 14 & 15) are exactly why Lemaire's been tapped as artistic director for the top tier line of Japanese chain, Uniqlo — the lead honcho of the very same qualities in the mass market. Infusing Lemaire's low-key tailoring with a subtle note of French boho this spring, favourites include all things ruched: That off-shoulder top (look 4), asymmetrical fire-engine red ensemble (look 7) and cream top and culottes (look 23).
Pushing boundaries: With a chapter of folksy florals layered print on print, the fact that Lemaire and Linh Tran are no longer sticklers for solids is probably testament to the power of Demna, Vetements and Balenciaga.
On our wish list: The supple, leather boho bag with extra large pockets (look 1). In a time where bag charms and interchangable straps define an It-bag, what we need is a dose of sobering simplicity and functionality that gets shit done.
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Best shows from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
Best shows from New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
Best shows from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
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See all shows from Paris fashion week spring/summer 2017.