PFW spring/summer 2020: All the best looks from Thom Browne, Chanel, Lacoste, and Louis Vuitton
THOM BROWNE: RENAISSANCE FANTASY
Favourite looks: One of the most unlikely trends we’ve spotted this season is undoubtedly the pannier. First spotted at Loewe earlier in the week, it has made its rounds to Balenciaga and Rick Owens. Though it was by far the most ‘traditional’ rendition of the historical garment, Thom Browne injected his own preppy flair by outfitting his models in seersucker fabric in soft pastels.
Favourite details: Though not immediately obvious, animals seemed to have played quite a big role in the collection. Take, for example, the birds hanging above the runway (and the bird cages on some of the models’ heads). The dolphin-shaped shoes and print on some of the dresses, and of course, the bags with a dog’s silhouette.
Favourite accessory: Shoes have been pretty standout this season, and the most iconic one from Thom Browne would have to be the pairs with ‘missing’ heels.
CHANEL: GIRL MEETS WORLD
Favourite looks: Forget stuffy corporate suits. The girl of Virgine Viard’s spring/summer collection is young and full of joie de vivre. Against the backdrop of Parisian rooftops, the models took to the runway in playsuits, short suits and skirts that fit and flare, in various colourful iterations of tweed. While keeping close to many of the codes that Chanel holds dear, Viard still managed to inject a sense of girlishness into the collection, making it an extremely wearable one.
Favourite detail: Every season, all eyes are drawn to the classic Chanel blazer, but this time around, we were taken in by the cozy cardigans instead. The more relaxed style is way less formal, but still retains that sense of French chic.
Favourite accessories: Once again, taking a style that’s signature to Chanel and updating it for the modern woman, Viard’s girls wear flats or sandals with a block heel, instead of five-inch heels.
LACOSTE: SPORT LUXE
Favourite looks: With Lacoste, you can always expect to see well-cut, classic sporty pieces. But what we weren’t expecting were the buttery leather jackets, pants and coats as the models turned the corner. Equally delightful were the sharp suits in eye-watering brights for both sexes that showed off designer Louise Trotter’s eye for tailoring.
Favourite detail: The leather scarves, worn by both the women and men, were such a simple yet effective addition to pulling all the looks together.
Favourite accessory: The footwear, done in collaboration with artist Helen Kirkum, was both practical and fun. The 2016 London’s Royal College of Art graduate used eye-catching colours that mimicked the equally colourful polo t-shirts that walked the runway.
LOUIS VUITTON: PERFORMANCE ART
Favourite looks: When designing the spring/summer 2020 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière looked at the Belle Époque period for inspiration, where clothing codes were adhered to more strictly. With artist Sophie onscreen singing “It’s Okay to Cry”, models marched in with smart blazers, knitted vests and A-line miniskirts, and dresses in vivid prints imbued with a sense of Art Nouveau. Fun fact: in a push to be more environmentally-friendly, Louis Vuitton used maritime pine wood from sustainably-managed forests in the Landes region in France for the set and runway. The material will be reused and upcycled for artistic productions by ArtStock.
Favourite detail: Ghesquière has been known to look back into history and there was certainly a hint of nostalgia for anyone born in the 80s and before when bags emblazoned with cassette tapes went down the runway.
Favourite accessory: When the LV Egg Bag was debuted previously, it was well-loved for this kooky and precious shape. This season, it gets a supersized upgrade, this time in multi-colour and we’re fans.