Best shows from PFW SS17 Day 5: Haider Ackermann and Acne Studios
Paris fashion week
HAIDER ACKERMANN: PROVOCATEURS
The collection: The Colombian designer has a knack for presenting the seductively supercharged, baring just enough to hit a high on the sensuous meter without being crass. Spring 2017 being no exception, it was the tailored blazers on skin (looks 2, 19, 24 & 34), blouses completely unbuttoned (looks 8 & 12) and one risqué velvet overcoat worn sans top and off the shoulder, paired with a long skinny scarf for modesty (look 3), that were the provocateurs.
Man of his word: "I would love to work more with leather because it is something that is very primal in the sense of a second skin. It's sexuality and sensuality, and has an animal instinct about it," revealed Haider Ackermann to Buro late last year. Velvet was the designer's piece de resistance last season and, this time around, split-leg metallic hot leather trousers that were rave ready and oh-so sexy (looks 8, 12 & 14).
The hair: Those gravity defying spikes every model (save for one in look 17) sported brought to mind Staten Island's Statue of Liberty — how befitting for Ackermann's collection that's liberating in its unabashed sensuality.
ACNE STUDIOS: PICK 'N' MIX
The collection: As with any collection by Jonny Johansson, the Swedish designer piles on the prints and textures, pushing his audience towards a sensory overload. While one may think he lacks tact, it's the inexplicable ease of his execution that begs to differ. Paisley onesies met plaid scarves (look 8) while floral tunics mingled with pyjama stripes (looks 27 & 35), merging into an eclectic smorgasbord of individually covetable pieces sure to satiate the style hungry Acne fan.
Go big or go home: Borrowing from Raf Simons' supersized collection of XXL collegiate sweaters last season, Johansson's were cut more kaftan-like in ethnic prints (looks 23, 24 & 26), but bore the same raggedy treatment that sets it apart from simply pinching your boyfriend's jumper.
Buro loves: While the designer might have decided it's not in Acne's stylistic range to succumb to hoodies, look 35 still delivered what the fashion crowd currently craves (oversized outers worn with nonchalence). Plus, it doesn't hurt that Johansson dialed up the bedroom-to-boardroom trend with lurex banding either. Get ready to hand over the dollars.
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See all shows from Paris fashion week spring/summer 2017.