Best shows from PFW SS17 Day 8: Chanel and Kenzo
Paris fashion week
#DataCenterChanel: It was easy to predict what Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by for Chanel's spring/summer 2017 collection when guests walked into the venue lined with walls of servers plugged with cable wires. Then there were the two Chanel robots in black and white tweed suits that opened the show and escorted the models down the runway. If Daft Punk had sisters, those robots would be them.
The collection: Technology was clearly the theme of today's show with digital prints (think: The default Apple desktop screen saver with its psychedelic motion graphic) and lingerie making up the framework of the collection. Was Lagerfeld addressing the fact that women spend more time checking their phones the moment they wake up that it eats into the time required to get dressed and ready for work? We think so, because that was clearly the case for us the last few weeks of fashion week. His solution to the problem: To simply throw on a medley of what's lying around (jacket, cardigan, skirt, trousers) over your slips and just walk out with hair swept into a ponytail and baseball cap worn to the side. But if you are truly brave and don't have the luxury of time, the Kaiser has given you the right to step out in your lace robe and negligee. As for accessories, there were 'access card' lanyards for necklaces, LED-lit bags and, of course, a novelty bag to sum up the theme and collection — a robot.
Something you might have missed: Zippers and buttons were swapped for Velcro straps (the kind you use to organise your tech wires) to eliminate time wasted fastening things on. In some instances, the house's iconic camellia brooches were affixed to straps (looks 12, 22, 30 & 61) instead of pinning them directly onto ready-to-wear pieces.
KENZO: STUDIO 54
The inspiration: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon turned their attention to Studio 54's boozy days (and then some) for spring's metallic fuelled and booty shaking club garb, even dipping into the work of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez — a character who'd frequently raise the roof at the '70s hangout back in the day.
The collection: You could see that the Opening Ceremony duo had a range of ravers in mind: The downtown kid whose wardrobe was made up of utilitarian fabrics — namely, denim and garbadine (looks 3, 4, 8 & 10); the glamazonion who split her time between runways, magazine covers and a coveted table at the club (looks 13, 16 & 19); and the society girl whose grandfather has a street named after him in Midtown Manhattan (looks 45 to 51). If anyone thought Kenzo lacked lustre after their logo sweaters blew up, here's plenty of paillette slips, metal link bralettes, and patent leather to attract the street style possey the next show season.
Favourite look: And can't you already imagine badass style star and designer Gilda Ambrosio giving look 22 a whirl? Except, she'd likely swap out the ruched skirt for a pair of vintage jeans. Dope.
The best street style from Paris Fashion Week SS17
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Best shows from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
Best shows from New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
Best shows from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
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See all shows from Paris fashion week spring/summer 2017.