PFW FW20: All the best details from the Rochas, Loewe, Ralph & Russo, Andrew Gn and Celine runway shows
ROCHAS: LAST CALL
First impressions: It's been six years since Alessandro Dell'Acqua has taken the helm at Rochas, and this season will be his last hurrah. As far as final send-offs go, the collection was a joyous celebration of colour, with burnt orange, lilac and purple dominating the runway. With colour as the centre of focus, the clothing themselves ranged from shirt dresses to A-line skirts and suits, to more embellished and embroidered statement-makers.
Favourite looks: With what looked like crystals trailing down the sleeves of the opening dress, the embellished pieces would continue to catch the eye through the show. Equally show-stopping were the fuzzy dresses and big coats that were styled head-to-toe in a monochromatic palette.
Favourite accessories: Translating just as well into the accessories, the bejewelled and fringe bags were certainly clutch-worthy. We also loved the chunky boots — great for clomping around during a rainy Fashion Month, or at your next music festival.
LOEWE: INTO THE FOLD
First impressions: Just when you think you know what to expect from Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, the creative director flipped the switch on expectations and presented a collection that was intriguing, and above all, lust-worthy. Last season, the focus was on the waist-cinching Marie Antoinette silhouette. While we might see a shadow of this shape in some of the dresses for fall/winter 2020, plenty of the pieces were, instead, voluminous, draped, and shaped in the way that brings to mind the work of Japanese masters, yet with a sort of wearability that kept it from being too avant-garde.
Favourite looks: Anything that was printed, twisted, and crafted in such a way that the eye just could not look away, ranked at the top of the list for us. Take, for example, look 20, a green brocade dress with folds that hid as much as they flatter, or look 39, with the voluminous sleeves that showed off a silver of the arms.
Favourite accessories: Like otherworldly sea creatures, green, gold and white ornaments clung onto the ends of leather pochettes, and swayed down the runway, leading editors to ask each other, "What's that?". Of another (non-imaginary) animal variety, snakeskin also made an appearance on a pair of shoes as well as on the Loewe Balloon bag.
RALPH & RUSSO: FEMININE FLAIR
First impressions: The moment we stepped into the Ralph & Russo fall/winter 2020 show venue, we were instantly transported to a wooded wonderland. From the clothing that walked down the runway (think: a mix of checks, Après ski gear, and frou-frou Malibu Barbie), it was clear designers Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo wanted to take us on a holiday around the world.
Favourite looks: Known for their couture work, it's no surprise that Ralph & Russo does pretty dresses well. The craftsmanship behind the sheer confections in bright pink, floral, or heavily embellished shone through, and the pieces, though familiar, felt fresh for the season. The Highland-style checks were a theme that ran through the entire show, and the best iterations were the ones with bright swathes of colour, while the addition of feathers to some of the looks were a fun and flirty touch.
Favourite accessories: Headwear can sometimes be a forgotten part of a collection, but in the case of the Ralph & Russo show, the hats were the pieces that helped pull looks together, and sometimes added texture or structure.
CELINE: BOYS & GIRLS
First impressions: If there's a designer in the fashion industry who has resolutely stuck to his guns over the seasons and at various houses he's designed for, it would be none other than Hedi Slimane. For Celine fall/winter 2020, his vision was clear: boys and girls in their '70s best, in a collection that's probably inspired by his mother (the show notes said 'A Ma Mère', which means 'to my mum').
Favourite looks: Taking unisex to a whole new level, models (both male and female) came out in suits, pussy bow blouses, and rockstar-worthy locks. For the girls, pleated skirts, well-cut jeans, culottes, and breezy dresses Slimane is known for. For the boys, everything from leather jackets to a velvet band jacket and metallic bomber with high shine.
Favourite accessories: Shaped like delicious-looking macarons, the rounded bags that took to the runway were a fresh yet practical interpretation of the whole mini bag trend.
ANDREW GN: LOOK EAST
First impressions: This, too, was a collection inspired by travel. But instead of what to wear on your vacation, it was a love note to all the glorious things one collects for keepsakes when one goes on an adventure. Spotted were jewels that referenced the Byzantine times, detailed capes with dragons and griffins, and even planetary systems for adventures that are out of this world.
Favourite looks: Known for his eye for colour and print, the show started out restrained, with a monochromatic palette that spanned cinched-in blazers, white shirts, and even a tweed skirt suit. But take a second glance, you'll find traces of Andrew Gn's signature maximalism in the giant doorknocker earrings, bejewelled buttons, and belt buckles. Without much warning, the looks exploded into a riot of colour and paisley prints, some emblazoned with the letter 'A' on it. In a sea of looks vying for attention, the embroidered pieces with fantastical elements were the ones that stood out.
Favourite accessories: Boots, boots, boots. In velvet, in metallic, in fire engine red — they were fantastic and we want them. That is all.