Best shows from PFW FW17 Day 2: Dries Van Noten, Rochas and H&M Studio
Daily audio reviews from Paris Fashion Week continues as editor-in-chief Norman Tan talks us through Dries Van Noten's 100th show, the feminine frocks at Rochas, and which guest made his night at the H&M Studio show (Hint: He's a star boy). Also, Norman chats up designer Pierre Hardy about his latest footwear collection for Hermès and why he loves working with neoprene.
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DRIES VAN NOTEN: CENTENARY SHOW
Designer: Dries Van Noten
Synopsis: For his 100th show, Belgium designer Dries Van Noten revived some of his favourite archival prints by overprinting or embroidering them with geometric motifs in vivid colours. Think: A tropical fern print embellished with chevrons of peach, red and black used on a silk day dress; as well as a black-and-white tree print reimagined with triangle motifs in black and ochre applied to a wide-lapel quilted coat. The soundtrack started with traffic sounds and barking dogs before transitioning to blues before finishing with orchestral string instruments — an aural treat to match the visual feast on the runway that also ran the gamut of the everyday (patchwork denim jeans) to the grand (luxurious fur stoles and velvet jacquard blazers). Favourite look? The chrome skirt suit worn by the perennially gorgeous Amber Valletta.
ROCHAS: FEMININE FRENCH FINERY
Designer: Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Synopsis: Just like his contemporary line, No. 21, Dell'Acqua is a master in the delivery of feminine elegance for the sophisticated Parisienne. The genteel allure of pastel blue and blush pink dresses were juxtaposed with the drama of black floral jacquard (seen on a black corset dress and a narrow coat sporting a train of black bows down the placket), whilst Yeti-like fur coats (already seen at Bottega Veneta, Versace and Marni in Milan) in mocha and maroon amped up the luxe factor; as did the evening procession of sequined fringe dresses (available in shimmering black or bold gold) and ivory gowns appliquéd with ebony floral motifs.
H&M STUDIO: ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE
Designer: Ann-Sofie Johansson
Synopsis: Projected on the four walls of the Paris Tennis Club in the 16th arrondissement — also the venue for H&M Studio's spring/summer 2017 'see now, buy now' collection — were various declarations of the show's theme: Love. From live video footage of models getting ready backstage with the sentence "Love is a beautiful chaos" cast on top, to "AMORE" repeated across another wall, it was a runway ebbing and flowing with positivity; reinforcing the brand's gestalt of fashion for everyone. Models smiled broadly, and some even danced, as they paraded exits that ranged from athleisure (rain slickers and billowing parkas) to sheer and sexy (sequined lace and frilled dresses) cast in black, white and hot pink. And to close, The Weeknd performed. Heck. Yes.
The H&M Studio SS17 collection is now available for purchase at H&M Orchard Building, 1 Grange Road.
SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Stay tuned, and come back daily, as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go audio reviews of the best shows from Paris Fashion Week for the fall/winter 2017 season.
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See all our coverage of Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2017.