Best shows from PFW FW17 Day 8: Chanel, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ellery, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton
To close out the fashion week marathon that started in Milan two-and-a-half weeks ago, here's one last audio review from editor-in-chief Norman Tan to wrap it all up. On the eighth and final day of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel took us into space; Moncler Gamme Rouge went hiking; Ellery took on the traditional bourgeois lady; Miu Miu wrapped us up in fur; and Louis Vuitton ventured into the Louvre. Have a listen to our final audio review for the fall/winter 2017 season as you scroll through the runway images below. Au revoir mon ami!
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CHANEL: AND WE HAVE LIFT OFF
Designer: Karl Lagerfeld
Synopsis: With the hashtag #ChanelGroundControl printed in the show invitation, everyone was expecting a space-themed collection. And let me tell you, we weren't disappointed. Standing tall in the centre of the Grand Palais was a Chanel rocket ship that served as a dominating backdrop to a collection that paraded the iconic tweed suit, reimagined with metallic silver leather detailing; shift dresses sporting stand-up collars similar to the collars on an astronaut's suit; and accessories by way of metallic quilted blankets, metallic boots, silver tights and fingerless gloves. Karl Lagerfeld's godson, the adorable Hudson Kroenig also took to the runway, but everyone left talking about the Chanel rocket ship that 'took off' at the end of the show — smoke and pyrotechnics employed to make the rocket ship 'lift off' when the countdown reached five. Why? Chanel No. 5, of course. Amazing.
MONCLER GAMME ROUGE: GONE HIKING
Designer: Giambattista Valli
Synopsis: Real autumn leaves on the runway, projection of a forest (in full golden grandeur) on the walls, and a troop of Canadian park rangers (all decked out in red livery and Mountie hats to boot) accompanied the models for the finale. Clearly, the Moncler Gamme Rouge woman for fall/winter 2017 is venturing into the great outdoors. This thematic inspiration translated into forest print hoodies heavily layered with parkas and blazers, all strapped under backpacks (including an ingenious iteration crafted from Moncler's iconic white down quilting), and anchored (rather strangely) by ballet flats worn with socks fastened with a thick elastic band in the brand's signature red, blue and white stripe. Outdoorsy fashion, but with a touch of finesse.
ELLERY: ELECTRIC AWAKENING
Designer: Kym Ellery
Synopsis: The celebrated Australian designer proffered a bipolar collection that oscillated from skirt suits worn with turtlenecks to psychedelic print dresses designed with off-the-shoulder puff sleeves. The inspiration and story? The "electric awakening... of a traditional, bourgeois woman who goes on a journey of self-discovery" read the show notes. And stepped out to an equally discordant soundtrack that spliced classical strings with a heavy techno beat, models exited in semi-transparent floral print PVC coat-dresses; quilted black and white macs in high-sheen patent leather; and a black fur coat with contrast crocodile leather lapels. Favourite look? That sexy allure of a yellow bustier top with off-the-shoulder sleeves paired with black leather trousers. Eclectic? Yes. But Ellery pulls it all together with her cool-girl contemporary aesthetic.
MIU MIU: FURRY BUSINESS
Designer: Miuccia Prada
Synopsis: Held in Palais D'iena, the entire show venue — including the stairs, columns, walls and seats — were covered in this gregarious purple fur; the same fur used for the show invitations. It was a bold choice by Mrs Prada, but as a testament to the strength of her Miu Miu fall/winter 2017 collection, it didn't overpower the clothes. Celebrating the 1970s with arguably more punch and pizazz than her mainline Prada show (held in Milan just a week prior and inspired by the same decade) there were body-con long-sleeve tops and matching trousers in graphic prints (including a super cute pink parrot) topped off with outrageously bouffant fur hats; elongated suit jackets with contrast fur collars that were so large they extended beyond the shoulders; and, my personal favourite, the texture play of blown-up palette dresses combined with clear raincoats, shouldered with fur stoles, and finished with fringe headbands crafted from sequins and crystals. Yes, Miuccia. Yes.
LOUIS VUITTON: LAST NIGHT IN THE LOUVRE
Designer: Nicolas Ghesquière
Synopsis: What better way to finish Paris fashion week than with the perfect trifecta of Louis Vuitton in the Louvre on the last night. The show may have started with a Japanese soundtrack (a teaser perhaps to the maison's upcoming cruise show to be held in the land of the rising sun?) but, on the runway, the collection was steeped with a strong streetwear sensibility. Think: Blazers and coats belted at the waist over patent leather skirts and tailored trousers; short dresses made from tweed treated with a high-gloss finish; and accessories by way of knee-high Chelseas (with a contrast elastic band) as well as metallic chains draped across jackets (reminiscent of military regalia) or around the hip of trousers (akin to layered key chains). And, with raw-edge fur pelts thrown over silk slip dresses like capes, there was also a discernible Jon Snow (à la Game of Thrones) vibe too. Can't wait to get your hands on these pieces? Fret not. Winter is coming.
See all our coverage of Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2017.
Also, wee all our coverage of Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2017.
Massive props to GlocalMe for their U2 portable wifi device that has made reporting live — and filing these on-the-go audio reviews — from Paris Fashion Week super convenient.