PFW fall/winter 2020: All the details from Mame Kurogouchi, Dior and Saint Laurent
First impressions: Last season, Maiko Kurogouchi found inspiration in beautiful Japanese packaging. This fall, the designer continues her journey exploring the world of layering and wrapping, though the palette is decidedly more sombre and neutral, compared to the prints from spring/summer.
Favourite looks: The pieces with the beautiful crochet overlays, were definite the standout pieces from the Mame Kurogouchi fall/winter 2020 collection. Looking to traditional basket weaving techniques, the zig-zag of 'basketry' adorned flouncy mini skirts, as vests, and were laid on top of coats and a puffer jacket.
Favourite accessories: Clear accessories are back (though, to be honest, did it ever go away?), and if you're a Mame Kurogouchi girl, you'd wear it with an outfit in the exact same colour for some tone-on-tone impact. Also beautiful was a beige backpack in the 'basket weave' seen on the clothing — practical and chic.
First impressions: What is 'consent'? This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri once again provides a thought-provoking platform to discuss femininity, and indeed, feminism. With Harvey Weinstein's rape trial finally ending in a guilty verdict, it seems timely that another collection that celebrates a strong, empowered woman should walk the runway. After all, as the neon letters spell out, "Women are the moon that move the tides".
Favourite looks: The first look that walked the runway? A pantsuit, of course. But the iconic Bar jacket has been softened with a rounded silhouette, rather than the sharp lines of the past. This relaxed take continued on throughout the collection, with loose trousers, sweaters and long dresses all putting forth a relaxed, easy-going vibe. Even the couture-like gowns — which Chiuri really excels in — eschewed fussier lace in favour of fringe.
Favourite accessories: Adorning the heads of the models were newsboy caps and scarves in polka dots, tie-dyed or emblazoned with the signature Oblique print, which added an overall utilitarian, workwear-inspired feel to the outfits. Spotted also were the beloved Dior Book Totes in a various sizes and new berry and coffee shades.
First impressions: Anthony Vaccarello has never shied away from sexy, but this season, the creative director took it up a notch with a collection that hid very little from the imagination. Even the blush carpeted floor to ceiling runway, with dramatic lighting that followed the models as they walked the runway, made us feel as though we were secretly peeking inside a boudoir.
Favourite looks: Like a second skin, latex leggings, pencil skirts dresses and halter neck tops clung to every curve of the body. Paired with delectable lingerie, many of the outfits looked right at home in the bedroom. But beyond the obviously sensual, what Vaccarello is a master at is creating a statement jacket. Case in point? The show started with a red double-breasted tartan blazer with a matching blouse. Navy blue, striped, checked and felt variations would follow suit, and would cement the collection as one of the most colourful ones we've seen from the 37-year-old designer.
Favourite accessories: It's all in the details this season, whether it was the coloured leather gloves, which peeked out as the models walked the runway with the hands stuffed into pockets, or the gold chains across necks and waists that provided a tough contrast to delicate fabrics, or the sky-heel heels with velvet ankle ties.
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