Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16: Thom Browne

Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16: Thom Browne

Sartorial subversion

Text: Pakkee Tan

Rarely does a designer pay homage to a culture without taking it to garish levels, but Thom Browne balanced the traditional and modern in a thoughtful homage to Japanese culture

The influence of Japanese culture... was palpable from the start, with the mise-en scéne arranged as a traditional Kabuki theatre and models dressed in beautifully detailed kimonos, modernised with the addition of pockets, were literally hung on posts used to hold the heavy garment.

Dark vibes from previous collections resurfaced for spring... Browne does not shy away from exploring his dark side and this season saw him mixing in elements such as ghastly white painted faces (owing much to the influence of Kabuki theatre), macabre black-painted lips and, for his closing looks, luridly elaborate Japanese headdresses.

Having made a name for his witty subversion of menswear... Browne took liberty with traditional fabric patterns such as houndstooth, pinstripes and herringbone, appliquéing them to his suits in the form of Japanese motifs; among them: the chrysanthemum, samurai warriors, tigers and dragons.

We don't like to play favourites... but our favourite look (Look 22) was a three-piece suit in dove grey, appliquéd with blooming chrysanthemums that was the perfect mash-up of East and West.

Point of debate: Would those Thom Browne getas (traditional Japanese clogs) go well with a summer outfit or not?

To see all our coverage of Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16, click here.