Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16: Dior Homme

Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16: Dior Homme

Haute bourgeois world

Text: Norman Tan

Injecting military and sportswear elements, Kris Van Assche marks a colourful and bold new direction for the Dior man

Having closed the book on his own menswear line, creative director Kris Van Assche has brought a clearer focus to Dior Homme; enlivening the maison's summer 2016 collection with bold colour and sportswear elements more commonly associated with his former eponymous label.

Influenced by military uniform and the history of sportswear... Van Assche punctuated his predominantly grey and navy exits with coats, knits and parkas cast in the bright orange found in the lining of MA1 bomber jackets; applied a khaki camouflage to shirts and trousers smartly paired with single-breasted blazers; and layered more gentlemanly argyle V-neck vests over shirts fastened at the neck with slender navy ties.

Further stamping out the sportswear theme... looks were routinely anchored by white or dark slate leather sneakers finished with a taupe-coloured rubber sole; or alternatively, low-cut hiking boots in onyx or tan.

However, this being the house of Dior... haute bourgeois luxury found its way onto the runway by way of a decadent coat crafted from sunshine yellow ostrich, a sumptuous double-breasted jacket cut from deep navy crocodile, as well as an orange crocodile flight jacket with flap pocket detailing.

When it came to jewellery... models either wore or held (wrapped around their hands) sculptural lucky charm necklaces — inspired by the work of American ceramicist Kristin McKirdy — which served, with its bright enameled coatings, as abstract talismans embodying the textures and colours of the collection.

And to close off proceedings... Van Assche sent out bombers and shirts appliquéd with circular motifs of the same white roses that populated the runway. With a staggering two thousand flowering white rose bushes embedded into the parquetry floor of the Paris Tennis Club, not to mention Karl Lagerfeld and Raf Simons watching on from the front row, the message was clear: This is a new season for the Dior man. Bold and adventurous, everything is coming up roses. 

To see all our coverage of Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16, click here.