Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16: Berluti

Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16: Berluti

Life's a picnic

Text: Norman Tan

Inspired by the city of Chandigarh in northern India, Alessandro Satori delivered his most casual and relaxed collection to date, painted in rich mineral tones

We always look forward to the Berluti show in Paris... not only because we are guaranteed of a killer menswear offering, but also because Alessandro Sartori feeds us afterwards. Held at the beautiful surrounds of Musée Picasso, guests were treated to a picnic on the grounds with hampers filled to the brim with baguette sandwiches, punnets of raspberries, cold cuts, and ice cream. Champers, of course, flowed freely.

After an Instagram frenzy at the museum entrance... with rows of male models sun-baking on colourful striped deck chairs — wearing only shorts, knee-high socks and Berluti shoes — Sartori unveiled the most relaxed and casual collection we've seen from him thus far.

Inspired by the modernist architecture of... the city of Chandigarh in northern India (designed by Le Corbusier in the early 1960s), the maison's suits and separates were richly pigmented in zircon yellow, emergald green, rhodonite red and turquoise. It was uber luxe tailoring (narrow-fit blazers with kimono cut sleeves) and elevated sportswear (oversized parkas and loose half-button shirts) painted in joyous hyper colour.

And upon closer inspection... it was a wardrobe constructed from ultra-technical, and unbelievably light, materials. Jackets were as light as shirts thanks to paper-like blends of cotton and silk with all internal construction stripped away, and the house introduced a new powder-coated leather made from super-thin baby calf sealed with a waterproof membrane for a matt finish.

When it came to the maison's famous footwear... the Berluti Playtime sneaker with a tri-colour patina featured prominently (both on the runway and on our own feet; won over by its craftsmanship and beauty, we cheekily bought a pair just before the show) as did the new slip-on loafer, Victor. Made from a single piece of leather, the Victor is similar to the emblematic Alessandro lace-up court shoe, but is worn without any laces. Stunning. I think we'll be making another trip back to the Berluti store.

To see the full collection, click on the slideshow below.

To see all our coverage of Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16, click here.