Paris Men's Fashion Week FW19 runway report: Off-White, J.W. Anderson and Valentino
TWO(ISH) MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. First men's show by J.W. Anderson. This fashion show marked the first time that creative director and founder, Jonathan Anderson, debut a men’s collection in Paris and the first time the brand live-streamed its show on its recently launched Chinese-language website. Hello Asia! Designers who express interest in our Asia markets have foresight. Walking through the catwalk of 5 rooms featuring scenography inspired by American artist Paul Thek, Jonathan Anderson shared, “I have been obsessed with his works for the last 10 years. He's one of the 6 people that I go back to for inspiration!” Mega earth globes were hung above the runway, reflecting Anderson's perspective from afar. On the collection he said backstage, “I thought, how do you reinterpret garments and how they should be worn? It’s the first time in a while that we have gone back to designing a men’s and women’s collection together as a continuous language. There is a kind of earthly, nomadic feel to it, where you don’t know whether it’s a beginning or an end.” The show was a continuation of a theme first explored by Anderson in 2017 for the J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall collection with inspiration drawn from the same artist.
2. Was that weed that we smell at Off-White Fall-Winter 2019 show? Someone literally lit up a cigarette (or other substance, for the matter) sitting at frow and extinguished it just before the show started. I love the high-low mix of leather jackets with denim jeans of Virgil Abloh's collection, but I'm not sure if it's because we were high. Just kidding.
3. Another collaboration: A conversation between creative directors Pierpaolo Piccioli and Jun Takahashi, led to the revelation of two exclusive collections during Valentino Men’s Fall-Winter 2019 shows. On this joint effort, Piccioli explained, “Jun Takahashi has changed the philosophy of streetwear, elevating a genuinely concrete matter to a more conceptual and sophisticated level. Undercover is able to use poetry and delicacy even in the more common pieces of an everyday wardrobe. I like Jun’s taste and vision and I like how he plays and interacts with graphics. There is always something to discover, his work is never predictable. The encounter between our 90’s tailoring inspired collection and his romantic streetwear is a spontaneous and most of all, real frame of contemporaneity.” There is a mix of time travel, UFO and the imagery of Beethoven in the film ‘A Clockwork Orange’, which is also the theme for Undercover.
FOUR(ISH) TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. A new line of customised, Converse x JW Anderson footwear: a glammed up version of the Run Star Hike with metal and mechanical studs on the sides. A special limited drop of the previous seasons Run Star Hike went on sale just before the show and was sold-out in less than an hour.
2. Off-White's acid-bright shearling tote bags.
3. They may not be men's, but those Off-White knee-high boots are perfect for sashaying in the whole of 2019! Host of a dance party? Get the silver ones.
4. Valentino's classic V logo totes are updated with Undercover prints.
5. Valentino Fall-Winter 2019. A special collaboration between Maison Valentino and Birkenstock: an Arizona sandal in total black with the iconic Valentino VLTN Logo on the side.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
1. Valentino look #11: Suits and coats in fluid volumes with impalpable constructions in blocks of monochrome such as grey, camel and black.
2. Valentino look #20: Time travel theme with UFOs were explicit transported in the collection such as on sweaters and trench coats.
3. Valentino look #17: Maison Valentino and the Japanese brand Undercover have conceived a series of graphics for their men’s collections, as seen here on sweaters and trench coats.
4. Off-White look #9: Neon accents, if not the whole ensemble.
5. Off-White look #23: Half suits with dual fabric.
6. J.W. Anderson look #34: Fringe ahoy!
7. J.W. Anderson look #10: A stylish nomadic traveller.
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