Paris Men's Fashion Week FW19 runway report: Dior Men, Berluti and Juun.J
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
1. Taking over the reigns from Haider Ackermann, and before him Alessandro Sartori, everyone is watching Kris Van Assche, on how he will interpret Berluti, the only menswear exclusive brand in LVMH group. We went backstage and asked how he would present leather differently. “Berluti is about choice, and leather is a very important element. To make it supple and super luxurious, just like what we’ve just created, leather shirts can be a nightmare but I can assure you that these (Berluti leather shirts) are very comfortable. It’s of high quality, luxury in a contemporary and special way. Luxury doesn’t necessarily have to be timeless or almost characterless, luxury can also be a strong fashion sense. It has to be!” Interpreted in tailoring, the impression of patina is evoked in calfskin and jacquard suiting, expanding the artisanal core of Berluti into a broader identity. The silhouette is defined, the shoulder stated but never too controlled. It paves the way for an exuberant approach to dress where formal tailoring feature side-by-side with trousers native to motocross. On those motocross trousers, Van Assche explained, “This is the strongest example of how Berluti is very much about lifestyle, it can be about motorcycles, and about anything of high-level luxury.” What about women on the Berluti runway? It’s the first for the house. “I hope that people will like her and will demand her. I am here to make people dream. Berluti is a menswear brand there’s no doubt about it, but I wanted the boys to be less innocent, I want to inject some seduction. Putting a couple of girls in the backstage full of boys gives a different energy.” Luxury has just been given a sexy lift.
2. Conveyor runway. Dior Men had static models standing on a moving conveyor belt, a first for the maison. They posed as mannequins with absolute perfect statuesque, exiting without walking back (much to my surprise as some movement would have showed off the lightweight drapes over suits and billowy parkas). On the collection, Kim Jones collaborated with American artist Raymond Pettibon to curate existing and new works, which evolved into prints on knits, jacquards and hand embroideries. Adding a touch of punk, Jones had tiger and leopard patterns in knitwear and intarsia furs, coupled with a utilitarian bent to harnesses and vests. This season saw a colour palette of pale blue, mauve bisque, pearlescent grey, midnight blue and black. With the conveyor runway, it felt more like a presentation than a show (not that we mind).
4 TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
1. Berluti's Alessandro and Andy shoes are reimagined with sculptural caps recalling the faces of diamonds. The construction amplifies the shine synonymous with the maison, a facet accentuated in another new take on the Alessandro adorned with angular metal plates.
2. A wealth of patina colours are splattered on Berluti's nylon bags structured in exotic leather.
3. Reflecting Monsieur Dior's superstitious nature, jewellery by Yoon Ahn (designer behind cult label Ambush and head of jewellery at Dior Men) feature charms and momentos, worn as amulets and charm bracelets.
4. Oversize parka hood is unmistakable identity of Juun.J with the classic design features of Canada Goose with strategically placed nylon panels with down fill at the shoulders and hood, and ultra-fine merino wool at the body.
7 FAVOURITE LOOKS
1-2. Berluti looks #4 and 28: Patina, the signature colouration of the maison’s classic leather shoes is illuminated in new light. Kris Van Assche paints his collection in the multi-hued stains of their surfaces. A wealth of reds, yellows, blues and greens saturates garments in rich colour, no two the same. The dye-splattered marble is further interpreted in print on silk shirts and turtleneck pullovers.
3. Berluti look #6: Formal tailoring featured side-by-side with trousers native to motocross.
4. Dior Men look #18: Collaboration with American artist Raymond Pettibon, curation of existing and new works evolved into prints on knits, jacquards and hand embroideries.
5. Dior Men look #27: Tiger and leopard patterns in knitwear and intarsia furs.
6-7. Juun J. looks #36 and 37: Fashion meets function. Canada Goose x Juun.J. Celebrated ‘street tailoring’ Korean designer Juun.J partnered with Canada Goose to showcase three of the Canadian brand’s heritage styles and a knitwear piece within his show. The collection reinterprets shades and fabrics derived from 90’s sports items, and brings silhouettes and structures from formal items together with a mixture of various fabrics presenting new Juun.J silhouettes.
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