Paris Fashion Week: Vivienne Westwood, Andrew Gn, Elie Saab and Rahul Mishra go wild with textures in spring/summer 2019
In our new fashion week round-up, fashion editor Jolene Khor reports from the ground, the best-ofs of the day in 2s, 4s, and 7s — of surprising moments, trendy accessories and favourite looks from the runway
TWO MOST SURPRISING MOMENTS
- When the traffic sounds at Andreas Kronthaler's spring/summer 2019 show came on, we didn't know if the honks were from real cars outside or the audio was prerecorded. We're usually far more astute than how we sound now; the reason for our confusion being the little group of artists, who were working on the centre piece of the runway when we arrived were still at it. Ah, performance art, but of course. Then, the first skater boy - Westwood was inspired by the skaters of Kabul, photographed by Jessica Fulford-Donson - rolled in. It's on.
- One expects frantic fanfare backstage at Christian Dior, Maison Margiela, Celine even (if you're on team Hedi, not team Phoebe - which tells us your fashion taste can't be trusted), but the fanatic antics of customers and society ladies at Andrew Gn caught press by surprise.
FOUR TRENDIEST ACCESSORIES
- Vivienne Westwood made her name eons ago selling jewellery and bags to the young-at-heart and she hasn't lost her touch after all these years. The upcoming season sees Westwood drawing hearts and flowers, literally like a school girl, alluding to what appears to be a sweet saccharine relationship with Kronthaler. A&V with a swirl underneath means it's getting serious, hugs. Don't believe us? See the plush love jewellery, embroidered with cherries, teddies, bows and stars, worn on hunky bodybuilders. Because no matter how we look like or what our age is, love and all things mushy is universal.
- Suspenders held up graphic, mixed material bubble skirts at Andrea Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, remixed at the top with a nude bustier and cardigan. The whole combination could give a zen nun anxiety issues. But as an accessory by itself, we're of the opinion that suspenders should make its own wave especially outside the punk genre. Seeing them peeking out of skirt suits or even on display clipping on to full skirts paired with frilly tanks could be hella cute for spring next year. Sleep on it.
- Scarves around the neck? Scarves twirled on the handles of bags? Scarves intertwined in braided dos? Scarves knotted on wrists? Tried and tested. While tucking a silk one under a leather belt is not a new concept, it's novel to eveningwear. Naturally, Elie Saab aces in this category.
- Diamonds (ethically sourced ones specifically) will always have a special place in our wardrobe - in a locked safe, accessible by us and no one else. For spring though, flirt with the glimmer of another kind. Colourful baubles and gem are a far cry from dainty this season; they're here and here to shine, as helix clip-ons and statement double-finger rings.
SEVEN FAVOURITE LOOKS
- Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood look #4: There is making sense of the Mountie chair hat. Westwood told guests she was "amused and fascinated by the auction catalogue of the contents and furnishings from the Ritz Hotel in Paris". A quick Google search revealed that there indeed were red chairs in the record-breaking sale at Artcurial last April. As for the rest of the outfit, the striped halter knit over a nude bustier holding a horse printed skirt is one of the designer's more commercial runway renderings in recent memory. Which begs the question, if your clothes are not wearable, are you a fashion designer or are you a righteous artist? Westwood is a bit of both. We're all better for it.
- Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood look #27: It's true what they say, that no two shirts are cut the same way. It's especially evident at Vivienne Westwood; see her western button down, striped a la Beetlejuice, complete with pearlescent fastenings. It's not punk without the quirk, so matching trousers get the pork roast treatment around the waist and thighs.
- Andrew Gn look #5: For a man consistently praised for his painterly ways, Gn sure knows what to do with the monochrome. What would have been a fine (read: predictable) summer dress with polka dot and floral needlework takes a gothic turn with a black and white colourway, sleeves finished with french lace. It's what we imagine Wednesday Friday Addams to wear when she's feeling pretty.
- Rahul Mishra look #13: The Indian designer's trench dress gets a breezy update, as the neckline is slouched to the shoulders and sitting atop a sheer sleeveless top with zig zag panel stitching. Along with its structured handkerchief shape, the four leaf flora emboss and 3D stripes in various horizontal widths give our bare summer hands something to touch.
- Rahul Mishra look #25: Romance is in the air for Mishra, deduced from the charming drop waist baby blue dress worn as a top, scalloped lace hem and all. Lean in to find lovestruck crystal appliqués on the plissé blouse and long skirt. Why not? Amour is evergreen.
- Elie Saab look #31: It's sort of strange (the lovely kind) that we've seen more animal prints (the leopard precisely) than florals for spring/summer 2019. But hey, it's fashion. Roll with it. Even Elie Saab is taking this approach. Mish mash printed maxi, belted with leather bearing metal grommets. Elaborate appliqué omitted. Saab it seems, is widening his clientele to the young(er), more commercial client. In this retail climate, it's a necessary direction.
- Elie Saab look #52: The use of florals may not see the same frequency as precious spring showings, though, they're still relevant. Elie Saab's signature embroidery also takes a backseat in one of our favourite looks of his, pushing his other forms of technical know-how, such as shaping and building volume with silk organza, to the fore.
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