Paris Fashion Week SS20: All the best moments from Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood, and Hermès
YOHJI YAMAMOTO: DARK ROMANCE
Favourite looks: If there was one word we would use to describe Yohji Yamamoto’s latest collection, it would be this: exquisite. Though this was a ready-to-wear collection, many of the pieces wouldn’t look out of place at a haute couture show; testament to the designer’s flair for turning the dramatic into the artfully wearable. Classic tailoring was mixed in with drapes, and the mostly black collection was punctuated by hints of red and two multi-coloured cocoons.
Favourite details: Even before running shoes became ubiquitous, even outside the gym, Yamamoto was already into comfortable footwear. This time, it was no different, with all the looks paired with sneakers or flats.
Favourite accessory: The caps came with zippers, which means you can wear in its original form, or as a bowl-shaped headpiece that’s reminiscent of the Jewish kippah.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: PUNK’S NOT DEAD
Favourite looks: Vivienne Westwood has always been an outspoken environmentalist, and Andreas Kronthaler, headliner designer and husband of the 78-year-old, didn’t stray far from that. For this latest collection, he took sustainability seriously and sourced from leftover scraps and deadstock to create something new again. A mish-mash of inspirations, from an Albanian freedom fighter (look #18) to Mozart (the collection is called ‘Rock Me Amadeus’), the pieces never lost the punk edge that dame Westwood is so well-known for.
Favourite details: Peel back all the voluminous layers and you’ll find the corsetry — especially the ones in an orange floral print — to be simple yet stunning.
Favourite accessory: Though certainly not very wearable, the kitschy headgear was all sorts of fun and eye-catching.
HERMÈS: MODERN WOMAN
Favourite looks: It was back to basics at Hermès, but oh what beautiful basics they were. Taking inspiration from the work aprons of the maison’s craftsmen, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski sent down a collection of classic pieces that would fare well in a woman’s wardrobe for many years to come. Playsuits, tunics over pants, and luscious leather dresses, though simple at first glance, were finished with details like shiny buckles, silver buttons, and saddle stitching that made it clear you were looking at an Hermès masterpiece.
Favourite details: While many of the looks were minimalist — utilitarian even — playfulness still managed to be snuck in with unexpected flashes of skin.
Favourite accessories: The new rectangular shaped bags, which looked like souped-up versions of an extremely chic toolbox, don’t have a name yet, but we love them in buttery leather or mixed in with canvas. Another accessory to look forward to is the two rectangular magnetic rods that transform your Hermès carre scarf into a huge bag.