Paris Fashion Week SS18: Unravel

Paris Fashion Week SS18: Unravel

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Text: Jolene Khor

Image: Unravel

Unravel begins to let the light in… then realises that it still relishes in being bad

The set: We descended from the rows of old school Parisian luxury into the underbelly of the city to witness the revealing of Unravel's spring/summer 2018 collection. The heavily graffitied path into Yoyo — a popular club and concert space by the Seine — was in perfect alignment with the contemporary brand's DNA; as was the remixed version of Edith Piaf's haunting classic, 'Non, je ne regrette rien' by DJ Underground.

The collection: Fans of designers Joyce Bonelli and Ben Taverniti may scratch their heads upon reading this: Unravel's upcoming season is fun. Okay, so the pieces weren't leaving a trail of glitter, nor were they particularly indulgent in colour. There weren't any mood lifting motifs either. But bear with us. It's noted that Bonelli and Tavertini were up to their usual antics — deconstructing and reconstructing garments in their atelier, working each outfit harder than the last to look artistically unfinished, put together by a very talented, albeit impudent, moody rebel. But their efforts were just less heavy-handed this time around. What the duo did is equivalent to cracking open a window in a moving car — sometimes you just need some fresh shit. See the blazer missing a sleeve like it was no big deal; the still-going-strong corset belt now loosely tied, hanging low on the hips; and the cargo shorts (a trend gaining momentum) topped with a slinky robe suggesting a kind of buoyancy we've never associated with Unravel before. Should the flying white tulle cape attached to a denim outfit fail to make your lips curl, seeing the brand take a jab at the main street Everlast (who is in the business of kicking ass BTW) by replacing the Everlast name with its own on the elastic bands of its pared back sporty tops and skirts should do the trick. If this isn't the type of evil genius that pleases a talented, impudent, moody, nuisance of a teenager, we don't know what will.

Something you might have missed: A video showing the words 'Unravel' burning was projected on a screen as a backdrop to the show. Timed to perfection, the flames had turned the name into ash by the time the last model took to the floor.

Catch up on all coverage from Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2018