Paris Fashion Week SS18: Saint Laurent
The set: Just because Anthony Vaccarello transported his runway from Saint Laurent's headquarters on Rue de Bellechasse (where his first two shows were held) to the Fontaine du Trocadero against a backdrop of a glitteringly lit Tour Eiffel, doesn't mean he would spare us from his theatrics. No siree. Cue smoke machines, cue bright white lights, cue dramatic music — this season's pick is Alexandre Tharaud's 'No. 4 in E minor - Largo'.
The collection: Vaccarello doesn't believe in seasons. Whether it's scorching out, or the bite of the cold is felt in the bones, the designer's modus operandi remains constant. He is in favour of leather and velvet. He believes in black but dabbles in gold. He enjoys challenging traditional shapes by distorting them into modern Parisian-girl-about-town pieces. By summary, that is his spring/summer 2018 collection, but his work was also so much more than the sum of its parts. The label's signature smoking jacket was cropped, and bore enlarged zebra print lapels. The peasant tops were cut navel-low and their sleeves extended way past the length of the arm; a look Vaccarello completed with tassel earrings and cargo shorts hiked via vertical drawstrings on the sides. Speaking of, shorts were big overall. We saw them heavily embellished — just like the bomber jackets (there was one with Eiffel Towers on it) — and sometimes in brocade; they also existed in black, and belted in brown leather numerous times. Fashion rules be damned. Expanding volumes were observed throughout, reaching a crescendo at the end. Early on, in sleeves à la bishop and leg of mutton; in bottoms à la drop waist skirts. At its climax, a parade of dresses with what we can only describe as cream puff appendages turned out in every mini silhouette imaginable, sashayed in yeti heeled boots. You'll know them when you see them.
Something you might have missed: An impromptu video shoot of Kaia Gerber and other models took place on the grounds immediately after the runway show. Editors were chastised for sneaking photos.