Paris Fashion Week SS16: Yohji Yamamoto

Paris Fashion Week SS16: Yohji Yamamoto

Goth princess

Text: Andrea Sim

Dark and deconstructed, Yohji Yamamoto is steadfast in his gothic design code that prevailed once again for spring/summer 2016 — welcome to the black parade

Set and design: A cavernous hall with scratched wooden flooring, dimly lit by two columns of chandeliers dangling from the high ceiling. It set the stage for the designer's post-modernist gothic collection in mostly inky black.

The looks: Draped toga dresses, crinoline confections paired with wellies, and ominous robes, all in the signature Yamamoto black. But unlike FW15, red was not the only other colour he embraced — doodles in sky blue and buttercup yellow marked an off-the-shoulder dress (look 26), and greyscale marbling cascaded down another (look 13). His final masterpiece? A Victorian corset dress in lipstick red with an intentional gaping hem.

The hair: Far from mild and far from ordinary. Bluntly lobbed bangs sat high above the eyebrows or hung down till mid-cheek, and hair colours were in half-and-half (black and red). 

Something you might have missed: The model that closed the show was seen carrying a vertical cylindrical device in her hands as she walked down the runway. Given the spectral vibes of his showing, you would have expected a dripping wax candle, and not the GoPro she was actually clasping. #DesignerGoesDigital

Favourite look: Look 4. It's neither the most attention grabbing nor spectacular creation by the designer, but it is the ensemble that has the most mass appeal. His loyal design audience will not pick it up off the rack in stores next year, but everyone else will be able to imagine themselves in it for spring, fall, and even resort. 

To see the full collection, click on the gallery below. 

For all coverage of Paris Fashion Week SS16, click here